Justifying the revival of Gao Ding

On the first day of the Autumn/Winter 2022 Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, Schiaparelli, Iris van Herpen and Giambattista Valli, three distinctive haute couture houses, presented us with new works of their own, or re-interpreted the classic heritage rooted in the fashion house; Or based on the present, for the ultimate pure love and beauty; Or with the support of new technology, looking at the future of custom fashion, let us follow their creative perspective, a glance at the different dimensions of haute couture in the past, present and future, and inject a strong dose of modern revival for Haute couture.

The guests who walked into the Schiaparelli show in the early morning would be somewhat sleepy by the all-black scenery in front of them, but when the curtain opened at the end of the show and the lights turned on, a surprising piece of high-end works completely swept away the tired atmosphere hidden in the table.

For the first show of this season's Haute Couture week, Daniel Roseberry chose to show at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris, also here, in tribute to Ms. Schiaparelli's "Shocking! The Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli "will officially open in two days.

On this occasion, Roseberry tempered his overly dramatic approach of the past season and presented the most solemn, appropriate and museum-worthy haute couture collection he has produced since Schiaparelli.

Roseberry's boldness and confidence were evident in the exhibition hall, which displayed the classic works of Ms. Elsa Schiaparelli.

The 33 unforgettable looks are not so much a reinterpretation of Schiaparelli's archive as a reflection of the fashion artist's profound influence on the creative industry over the past century.

In 1937, Elsa Schiaparelli was inspired by the artwork of Jean Cocteau to create a l 'oeil pattern on the back of the dress, and Roseberry now applies this strange visual effect to the cut neckline, which is both fun and sexy.

What is more interesting is that in these designs created with the starting point of "tribute", you can also glimpse the inspiration of Elsa Schiaparelli for countless fashion generations, Roseberry's reinterpretation creates a striking dialogue and consensus with the tributes she received decades ago from Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Lacroix

The Spanish-inspired coats and dresses in the new collection are unmistakable echoes of Christian Lacroix's haute couture creations of the 1980s.

The velvet dresses and suits with their flexible, 3d flowers are reminiscent of the Yves Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 1988 Haute couture collection, and through this cross-generational interpretation of design, more people understand Schiaparelli's pioneering creativity and century-long influence.

I wanted to convey a creative innocence in this series: I wanted people who saw it to feel what my team and I had fun doing when we created it. The joy I want you to feel is not only the joy of creating things, but the joy of creating something beautiful that lasts forever.

Roseberry has been instrumental in the revival of this iconic legacy - from Lady Gaga wearing his designs for the presidential inauguration to Adele's recent custom-made concert dress, his efforts have reawakened Schiaparelli's current cultural relevance.

In the upcoming Schiaparelli exhibition, we can also see Roseberry's own exhibition hall, which is the biggest recognition of his more than three years in office.

"The Art of Haute Couture," reads the description on Iris van Herpen's Instagram page.

Unconsciously, this fashion stranger who freely moves on the haute couture stage ushered in the 15th anniversary of the establishment of the brand this season.

Iris van Herpen's designs cannot be measured by traditional high standards, either from a craft or technical point of view, and it is this innovation that constantly pushes boundaries, making each of her subversion seen as the future of haute couture, and this season is no exception.

"Meta Morphism" was the theme set by Iris van Herpen for this second high-level show. When it comes to the topic of "meta-universes", the first thing that comes to mind is those fashion variants in the virtual world.

However, in van Herpen's consciousness, the imagination of the virtual and the future triggered by the "meta-universe" should not only stay in the transformation of the creative environment and media, but how to build a bridge between reality and the future with new technology.