Innovation makes haute couture fearless of The Times


In the blink of an eye, the spring/Summer 2024 Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week has come to an end. Four days, 30 big shows, in this era of social media and Paris show seamless connection, this haute couture fashion week has almost become the most concerned and discussed in recent years, from the various previews before the show, to the major brands in the show to create a new image of haute couture, as well as the wide spread of the platform after the show, are proving that even if the golden age of haute couture has passed.

However, it still has the value of existence, and innovation is the core value of Gaodin.

Pascal Morand, executive chairman of the French Haute Couture and Fashion Federation, also said in an interview: "The fashion industry is not immune to all the changes taking place in the economy and society. Sustainable development, inclusiveness and, of course, the digital revolution. This is a factor that must be taken into account when making decisions today.

In the face of these challenges, we must not shrink; Instead, we should grasp the nettle, innovate and change, and succeed." And in this season's haute Couture Week, we also see the major brands through the "innovation and change" and presented the surprise work, from the classical salon to the twilight strip, from the revival of the drama to the future vision, haute couture is through continuous innovation, into their own new era.

In the name of "Le Salon", creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli brings the new season of Haute Couture collection back to the salon in the Place de la Fontaine, Paris, where the brand has been since 1988, to evoke the tradition of haute couture. In fact, the return is not the same as the old-fashioned, Piccioli hopes to express a new concept of haute couture through the inherited skills of those workshops, "you don't have to feel the weight of technology and handmade, because haute couture is ultimately an effortless illusion."

He explained, "Technology is hidden from view so that it does not lose its magic - just as a magician can remain a magician until he reveals his secrets."

As Piccioli said, Valentino's high-end series was endowed with modern magic by him and continued his extraordinary control of color combination. Various high-saturation pure color pieces laid the modern tone of the series. Gorgeous decorative elements vibrated with the walking of the models, and the leather tassels were light as feathers. Dresses and suits covered in metallic sequins and beaded dresses also struck the right balance of luxury and ease through precise cutouts.

At the same time, innovative perspectives that integrate the language of today's fashion are also unfolding: The blazers, blazers and long gentlemen's coats that break the laws of styling in the haute couture world were juxtaposed by Piccioli with flowing feather skirts, heavily embroidered shawls and exaggerated bell dresses, amplifying the modern tension of haute couture, while the black tulle see-through gowns that appeared at the end, It interprets the essence of being made for the body with exquisite but imitative aesthetic craft.

Over the course of several seasons, Kim Jones' vision for the Fendi Haute Couture collection has become clearer: abandon the visual spectacle and hide a breathtaking accumulation of craftsmanship beneath the simple and understated styles.

In the Spring/Summer 2024 couture collection, Jones takes this concept further, refining Fendi Couture's core keyword, "Human Futurism." "I've been thinking a lot about the futuristic style Karl Lagerfeld created for Fendi. In this collection, humanism is at the heart of this futuristic style."

On the basis of Lagerfeld, Jones tries to give humanistic care to Haute couture, and the best embodiment is the integration of these styles with daily life scenes. Even the most luxurious materials, such as ultra-soft mohair, fine cashmere, vicuna and crocodile skin, should serve people themselves, not just decorate for decoration.

The two Scatola silhouetted gowns matched each other on the open and closed fields, and the precise geometry of the patternmaking allowed for a sense of depth and wrapping. The feathery new full-length tassels provide a never-before-seen fur texture, with a large number of intricate embroidery designs hidden under the gloss of the same color fabric.

Driven by the same philosophy, members of the family involved in the design, accessories and menswear artistic director Silvia Venturini Fendi and jewelry artistic director Delfina Delettrez Fendi, respectively, brought a series of specially tailored Baguette bags that continue the materials and techniques of the same season.

Together with the "Singular Vision" advanced glasses personalized based on facial scanning data, we create a forward-looking prototype of "humanistic futurism".

In the world of haute couture, Giorgio Armani Prive is almost synonymous with elegance itself, a red carpet must-have and the first choice that can't go wrong on any occasion. Giorgio Armani, who is about to turn 90 this year, still maintains a strong creativity, bringing 92 new couture designs, the highest number of couture shows this season.

There is no doubt that Mr. Armani maintains high standards of quality and quantity, and in the new season he seems to be trying to step out of his comfort zone. For Mr Armani, haute couture is a serious business, but a little more fun and ingenuity is fine.

This relaxed form can be seen in the name of the collection "Haute Couture en Jeu", "on the one hand, it means' let Couture participate in the game ', and on the other hand, it can also be translated as' Couture is a fun '." Either way, it's time for me to be brave and take a risk that might look less like Armani."

But as it turned out, Mr. Armani didn't have to worry about even the playful perspective that unleashed the fun, with its signature pagoda-shoulder suits, rhinodiamond-tulle dresses and stark exotics that contrasted with the soft tones of watercolors, the sheer silhouettes of layers of soft printed tulle and the bold headpieces. It really reflects the essence of his playfulness - exploring more possibilities for Armani-style elegance.

A Paris metro ticket included in the invitation led us to a night bar under the Alexandre III bridge, where the damp steps, dim lights and bright moonlight all provided the perfect narrative atmosphere for Maison Margiela's Artisanal new collection. Creative director John Galliano's dramatic colors will undoubtedly be fully displayed.

When the music plays, the model enters the audience's vision with the physical expression of the stage actor, the clothes, the characters, the background, and all the surrounding elements, which form a throwback to the 1920s and 1930s, reminiscent of the night scenes of Paris clubs and streets taken by photographer Brassai in that year. It takes us back to Galliano's early days, filled with The shadow of legendary series such as "Les Incroyables", "The Ludic Game" and "Black", which seems to let people see the talented and unrestrained fashion star again.

From the classical shape of the Victorian period, to the rebellious mood of punk culture and underground clubs, to the color and craft texture of modern art, Galliano integrates his best elements in this series, which is a new interpretation of classic dramas Jack the Ripper and Les Miserables.

It is also an extension of Galliano's creative style in the 1980s and 1990s. Obviously, he awakens his personal consciousness more strongly in this series, re-emphasizing that outstanding creativity still has unshakable value in this increasingly conservative environment, and hoping that this is the beginning of his return to the top again.

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