At London Fashion Week, the influence of the Chinese design corps can not be underestimated. Most of them received their fashion education in London, where they started their fashion careers and gradually built their own business.
As a representative of the development of Chinese designers on the overseas stage, designer Huishan Zhang's personal brand Huishan Zhang has held more than 10 shows in London, and has opened its own independent store.
This season he was inspired by the tones and power of Luca Guadagnino's film Choke and dancer Pina Bausch's dance work, giving the suits and gowns a gorgeous, expressive beauty with bright and rich color schemes.
At the same time, Zhang Huishan is also seeking a breakthrough in the design, the shirt, half skirt in the opening shape, and the suit shape in the series are emphasizing the practical wear of the design in daily life, and the bleaching effect of denim is treated by the laser washing effect, reducing the use of water and chemical agents, and the sustainable concept is further.
Sweet and dreamy Susan Fang is unique in the London Fashion Week show, many people know her brand because of the "air weaving" process used by designer Fong Yannan, and this season, she wants to further explore the intersection of crafts and artificial intelligence in design, "although people have a lot of fears about artificial intelligence, I want to romanticize the idea of robots, And trying to figure out how it connects to the human subconscious."
Ms. Fang wanted to inject technology into the design while keeping it human, and some of the models wore her specially made petal-shaped see-through glasses, like smart devices from a fairy tale world, to guide the Susan Fang-clad fairies.
Those hand-painted flower patterns, with the help of AI in the process of pattern generation, the iconic air weaving technology also integrates the intelligence of machinery and the temperature of craftsmanship, and the final result is exceptionally elegant and smart.
The most special, even said to be "digital" work in the whole show, a 3D dress composed of 600 beads, but completely hand-completed by the domestic has done the mother of the artisan, amazing at the same time also triggered people's thinking, artificial intelligence and manual differences and boundaries where, the same effect, after the careful creation of hands, Is it hotter than a machine-generated work?
Wang Yuhan, another Chinese designer resident at London Fashion Week, can always find inspiration in classical literature and art, and use a relatively beautiful way to directly confront the dilemma of reality.
This season, she chose to draw Tess, the heroine of Thomas Hardy's Tess of the d 'Urbervilles.
The story of the novel is set in the late 19th century, Tess was born into poverty in a life of physical and emotional unhappiness, tolerance, and betrayal, but when she finally wants to fight for her life, she is executed for radical behavior.
"I wanted to reframe Tess as a representation of women today, exploring the power of women and their ability to choose their own path in life." Wang Yuhan said.
The nautical elements in the design allow women to become the helmsman who dominates the course of their own lives. Printed silk and handmade embroidery and lace are still her strengths, but this season, there is a little more of the original style of farm fields in the novel.
In the turning point of the story, when Tess takes the strawberry seduced by Alec, "strawberry" becomes the beginning of the plunging into the abyss of the plot. Unlike Tess's shyness and shyness described in the original, Yuhan puts a large number of strawberry prints on the final sets of looks, which is exactly what she said before, Tess should have a fearless modern woman image.
From being a finalist for the LVMH Prize to Julia Fox's hard work, Marrknull has gained unprecedented exposure in the international fashion industry, but behind these dramatic, sculptural designs, designer duo Wang Kuma and Shi Tian want to reflect on contemporary life through design. As the theme of this season is "Get Off Work," we explore the middle ground where everyone may live - the tipping point between "going to work" and "going home."
This may be an instant change in reality, but it is more of the picture that the two designers wanted to freeze. The design of the show is a mysterious urban space, with models with different identities as guests of this space, in the process of displaying fashion completed the switch between career and self, the soft tull skirt is rotated and twisted to give a sense of power, the basic bra and pants reflect the night of the city, a tension between the rules and the outside arises spontaneously, as the brand said in the show notes. "No one can escape the tide of The Times, but human instinct calls for truth and freedom all the time."
During London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024, which marks the 30th anniversary of the launch of the BFC NEWGEN project, an exhibition entitled "Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion", sponsored by Alexander McQueen, looks back at how a new designer has started to go global from the NEWGEN platform since 1993.
Over the past three decades, NEWGEN has propelled the careers of talented designers from Kim Jones to Jonathan Anderson to Simone Rocha to Grace Wales Bonner.
This exhibition by VOGUE's special fashion critic Sarah Mower and the Designer Museum's senior curator Rebecca Lewin, through multiple Spaces, combing through the classic works of these creative talents who departed from London, It covers many aspects from printing, creation theme, dressing style, fabric, etc. It is particularly worth mentioning that Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 1993 "Taxi Driver" collection will also be presented in a specially created space.
In addition, Christopher Kane's first collection in 2007, Craig Green's iconic sculpted jacket, and Mary Katrantzou's precise prints all take us back to their formative years.
