2024 Spring/Summer Four Fashion Week to the second stop, London. Although it is only a short four-day schedule, it can be said that almost all of the most active forces in London fashion today.

Some have a hundred years of history, in a new stage to find their own positioning, and some are transforming from a pioneer force to a more mature in the commercial field of well-known designer brands, of course, as a fashion education resort, the emergence of new forces this season is still worth our attention. This year marks the 30th anniversary of the British Fashion Council's BFC NEWGEN program. So this season's London Fashion Week has been spectacular in every sense.

Whether it is a classic old or a budding new face, "subversion" is the eternal DNA flowing in British fashion culture.

But today, subversion is not just a gimmick, a topic, in London Fashion Week, we see all kinds of "subversion", is no longer the surface noise, but in a softer, more daily, more easily accepted way to make their own voice, more precisely, the current subversion, that is, from the heart to change the self. It is the product of pluralism and inclusiveness from the perspective of rationality and sensibility.

Unlike the other three major international fashion weeks, the brand matrix in the London Fashion Week calendar seems to be completely unaffected by external circumstances.

No matter how other big names leave or choose a new track, in London, from Burberry, JW Anderson, to Simone Rocha, Richard Quinn, these brands rooted in the UK have never left, guarding the international standards of London Fashion Week.

In a way, Burberry represents London Fashion Week.

As a British-born design talent, the addition of Daniel Lee has undoubtedly brought more attention to the brand.

Following the British weather as the starting point for her debut show, Lee moved the show outdoors this season, setting up a giant tent in Highbury Fields Park to tell a new narrative of fashion in the outdoor camping scene.

"I think it's good to take people to places they wouldn't necessarily go, outside of the obvious tourist attractions," Lee said.

"This is my first time to walk London Fashion Week. Our on-site staff can obviously feel that after the first show, everyone is working very hard to do a good job of the new season of the show, the team interviewed about three or four hundred models in the early stage, and the faces are very diverse. And the look that I did, I actually tried a lot of four or five sets before I finally settled on it."

For the trench coat that the brand is proud of, Lee did not want to change its classic look too much, but chose to slightly move the position of the belt down and change the proportion of the silhouette to make it more suitable for casual everyday scenes.

Print, on the other hand, is Lee's summery theme for Burberry, with metal locks and chains in the Knight totem patterned or hollofted over basic coats, dresses and suits, showing the British brand's transformative wind in the summer.

In addition, the trailer of strawberries, cherries and gerbera also appeared in a number of fashion models, but all in knight blue, which is Lee in the heritage of the brand's history outside of the modern clever thinking, "this is of course a subversion of the wardrobe rules, but this looks more London feeling."

Jonathan Anderson, who also started his career in London, has also presented a lot of funny works through conceptual fashion in recent seasons.

At the start of JW Anderson's Spring/Summer 2024 collection, a collection of hoodies and shorts that look like "pinched" were inspired by Plasticine, a type of plasticine that Anderson discovered and has been in production in Northern Ireland since 1897.

He then continued his ability to find interest in the mundane: "In the summer, I saw all these girls and boys hanging around in biker jackets and overalls."

Instead, he chose to build on the scale, inflating T-shirts and low-rise trousers, or embellishing the edges of MA-1 flight jackets with feathers to simulate the effect when the jackets burst.

If Jonathan Anderson is looking for magic moments in reality, Simone Rocha is bringing dreams a little closer to our lives, and a little closer.

From the creation of the men's collection last year, it is not difficult to see that Simone Rocha's commercial territory has become more and more extensive, and the more functional and practical design has been directly reflected in this season.

Rocha calls this season The Dress Rehearsal. The models with bouquets of roses file out of the show space at the English National Ballet's headquarters. It's as romantic as ever, but her motivation to simplify is palpable, and when we look at the models' feet, Those Crocs sneakers and slippers embellished with pearls and rhinestones are believed to be the focus of next season's fashion lovers.

Another London Fashion Week designer to talk about is Richard Quinn, whose designs this season are still flashy, but very emotional.

The show was a tribute to Richard's father Patrick, who passed away in June this year. "I wanted the design of the show to be angelic. The team knew my father very well and he was always in charge of the sets for my shows."

An emotional ballet performance kicked off the show, followed by a series of saintly dresses, from pure white and black, to the bright prints and feathers Richard specializes in, all kinds of seemingly heavy work elements and materials, and now only 33 years old he is comfortable with.

Many have compared his work to the haute couture that is abundant in Paris, and it is true that the embroidery companies, fabric companies and production workshops that Richard works with all overlap with the so-called old haute couture houses, but even so, he does not have the luxury of challenging the Parisian system; for him, running his business from London is enough.