A precious time for fashion and art to do their best


Until now, I wasn't very keen on looking back at past work, because a designer is only as good as his next collection; And at the rate of two, four or six series a year, I never have much time to look back.

And last August, it all seemed right. I've been collecting collections of artists and other designers, and I love books, so obviously I had the idea for a book.

In addition, since I have more free time, my brain has started to self-examine, which is a completely automatic behavior.

In addition to my own independent label, I also worked as a creative director at Dior for 11 years, and also worked for Berluti for 3 years, which is more mysterious and pursues beautiful handmade products.

I've been thinking about what to do next and how to position myself in these three very different directions. And in the process of making this book, I saw the clear relationship between these different series, and how it's all intertwined.

Which series is the most memorable for you? What's behind the scenes that makes it so special?

Too many - in 2005, my first Kris Van Assche collection came out, that's where it all started, and the response at the time was unexpected.

I don't consider myself naive, but it does take a certain amount of naivete to quit my job as an assistant and jump into the unknown.

And my fourth women's collection of 2010, which is also my last women's collection to date. Even though I felt at the time that things were moving in a wonderful direction, I simply didn't have the time or budget to continue.

The two shows at Dior in 2008 were emotional, but not everyone understood my interpretation of the brand's philosophy. Taking over a brand's history and past creation is not easy.

But my gut feeling is that focusing on the founder, Mr. Christian Dior, and adding elements of haute couture ended up being the right choice. I like the Kris Van Assche Autumn/Winter 2012 collection, which is about "white collar" versus "blue collar", men at work.

Then there's the 2013 collection, which is about the collision and spark between sportswear and dress. The Dior Autumn/Winter 2014 collection was a highlight because it was the moment when Mr. Christian Dior's obsession met my obsession; And his signature classic suit jacket (Bar Jecket) also reinterpreted the male body in my last two Dior shows, giving me a feeling of going round and round and coming back to square one.

Finally, I really like the collections for Berluti because they are the most lavish and challenging collections I have ever designed, with silhouettes that remind me of the early work of Kris Van Assche.

What would you like to share with young designers who are about to embark on their own fashion journey?

Starting your own brand requires a certain amount of risk and naivety because so many things can go wrong. You need to be prepared to know what you're good at and surround yourself with people who can help each other and complement you.

Then there is the risk, though there is no predicting when it will fall flat and run into trouble. But a little naivete is "healthy" because it allows you to dream big, but too much naivete is not a good thing either.

I suggest taking it one step at a time, working as an assistant first, getting to know the industry. This is what I tell my students at Polimoda Academy in Florence, Italy, where I have been a tutor for the past two years. Another good piece of advice is to never listen to other people's good advice and rely on your own intuition.

Does fashion still excite you?

This book made me realize what my love of fashion really was, and it was clear that I wanted more. Although a little anxious, but I am waiting for a most suitable opportunity.

The preface to the book, by Anders Christian Madsen, is a good description of what drives my work: "restraint, a pure approach and an attachment to the beauty of the old days".

I often think about the "beauty of old times," and I am very inspired by the conflict between this concept and our own time. The trend is a little more sophisticated than the pinstriped three-piece suit with slacks and white sneakers that was popular in 2005. For me, fashion is a way to make everyday life better.

It's not an absolute necessity, but it can make a big difference. It makes you stand out and show your personality, which seems increasingly important in a world where communication is constantly happening.

I'm still very much into fashion, and the aesthetic side of life has always fascinated me.

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