Conveying a sense of subtlety and restraint through emeralds, deep inks, black and cool shades like gray and beige, which have become the main colors at New York Fashion Week this season, the designers' use of color in such a coordinated fashion seems to focus on calm, deliberate thinking at a time of spring and summer releases, and also reminds consumers to face fashion more rationally.

After celebrating its 20th birthday, this season Proenza Schouler is also focused on opening a new chapter.

In the past, the brand has been recognized by classic bags and mesh dresses, and this season Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have brought the brand's new logo, the abstract combination of P and S like an infinite symbol, decorated on the chest of the new season.

As always, black and white contrast, bright scarlet, yellow and some clear sky blue are dotted in the series, but uncommonly there are soft perspective tulle and fresh sequins, starting from Liu Wen's interpretation of the pleated strapline skirt, the colorful yarn fabric becomes the armor covering the basic model, or is printed with abstract patterns, giving the fashion hazy beauty; Under the romantic strokes of McCollough and Hernandez, the sequins also have a fresh flavor, and the water blue diamond-shaped translucent pieces are like summer dew slanting on the halter top and half skirt, which is a refreshing feeling.

Also looking for balance and variety this season is Brandon Maxwell, who admits that it's a "constant tug between freedom and restraint." You may still remember him for Lady Gaga's theatrical drag shows on the Met Gala red carpet, but starting last season, Maxwell has taken the initiative to tone down his color palette, introducing a look more based on business suits, and emphasizing the high quality of fabrics.

But perhaps the previous change came too fast, and the industry didn't seem ready for the Maxwell who was born for "commuting," and it wasn't until the release of the Spring/Summer 2024 collection that we were able to confirm that he was finally at ease between himself and the market:

The iconic maxi dress is back in full swing, paired with everyday wardrobe staples like knitwear, leather jackets and caped blazers. In addition, the emergence of ripped jeans, leather patchwork skirts and printed cross-shoulder dresses also heralded the potential of brand design to take to the street.

In addition to local designers, the gathering of fashion design forces from around the world is also the reason why New York Fashion Week can become a key stop among the four major fashion weeks.

Most of them started their professional study of fashion in New York, set up their own personal brands, or were noticed and sought after by the world fashion circle here.

From Joseph Altuzarra, Dion Lee, to Private Policy Li Haoran and Qu Siying, no matter what brand concept and style they adhere to, they know that in order to survive and develop in the competitive New York Fashion Week, they must make their strengths further.

Joseph Altuzarra, who turned 30 this year, grew up in Paris with a French father and a Chinese mother, and these experiences have shaped his diverse and inclusive design outlook, which is particularly evident in the 2024 Spring/Summer collection, "In the past few years of design, I have been escaping the real world. I brought all the colors to the top last season, and now I want to go back to something more original and closer to life."

In fact, although Altuzarra said goodbye to the last season's exaggerated colors, but in the fabric, silhouette and shape of the overlapping shine, as he said, you can almost find in this collection for any occasion needs of clothing, and can be worn freely, free combination.

With her diverse background, she builds a complete and modern female wardrobe.

Australian designer Dion Lee is taking his sexy functional style a step further.

Taking inspiration from the hardware found in everyday toolboxes, Lee added more "hardcore" metal embellishment to the brand's signature corsets and overalls - exotic details such as wrenches, sockets, power cords, models with kits of varying sizes dangling from their boots, and even walked down the runway carrying a network cable.

"This season is really about improving the language of pragmatism and architecture that I've been playing with so far," says Lee.

Indeed, under these seemingly crazy gimmicks, the combination of denim and knitted fabrics became more effortless, the structural matching of lace and corset became more seamless, and the industrial solid colors were also added to the more jumping colors, which allowed Dion Lee to go further on the road to his own.

Private Policy, founded by Chinese designer duo Li Haoran and Qu Siying, debuted this season as the closing show of the first day of New York Fashion Week, with a double upgrade in the brand's concept and technology, all around environmental sustainability.

This season, they are inspired by conservationists trying to save the ocean's coral reefs.

Starting with the work clothes for deep-sea operations, diving equipment, mesh headwear, buoyancy life jackets and functional drawlines run through the series, while the brand's iconic diamond check also sets off hazy waves under the influence of the ocean concept, and the soft color matching echoes the spiritual beauty of corals and other creatures in the deep sea.

Take a closer look at the glitter that glows on denim and satin, all made from biodegradable plastic that breaks down in nature's microbial environment.

At the same time, the brand will also launch a T-shirt in partnership with the non-profit organization Reef Life Foundation, sharing the Reef Life Foundation's insights on ways to protect coral reefs in the form of newspaper prints, and for every one sold, An Oceanite block will be planted in an endangered area of the world to help coral growth and coral reef recovery, helping fashion and the world "evolve" towards a more sustainable future.