New wardrobe for next season


As the head of the four major fashion weeks, the six-day New York Fashion Week came to an end yesterday, and classic American brands such as Michael Kors Collection and Carolina Herrera continued their past high standards. Area, Rodarte, Thom Browne and others brought more topical designs to the show, while Chinese designer brands such as Private Policy, Snow Xue Gao and PH5 continue to find new growth on the New York stage.

For the public, New York Fashion Week has always been the most meaningful station in international fashion week, 2023 autumn and winter is also the same, "Fashion and Beauty VOGUE" in this first time to count the four most distinctive fashion trends in the new season show, grasp the pulse of the trend early.

Traditionally, autumn and winter collections tend to be composed and understated, but from the first day of the new season's New York Fashion Week, naturalistic creative themes, prints and embroidery are trying to break the stereotype of autumn and winter design.

Prabal Gurung experiences the beauty of butterflies during his vacation, when the colors and patterns on their wings are magnified to become bold patterns on dresses, large silhouette knitwear and shawls, or to transform into abstract structures raised on the shoulders of jackets, giving a gorgeous and airy pose to winter attire.

Dion Lee, who has always been a sportsman, also sees the charm of nature this season, but he is attracted to the moment of "transformation" of animals, and extends this metabolism to his own role identity: "As a person, as a designer, identity is always changing and developing."

Based on the design of slip dresses, tights and sports buckles, textures such as snakeskin and crocodile skin create a sense of movement through metal nails and chains, and the changes of nature are shaped by Lee into dynamic fashion moments.

This season, Private Policy designer duo Li Haoran and Qu Siying finished their first combination after the epidemic.

The animal headwear they wore with the models on the show highlighted the theme of this creation, "We Are All Animals" (we are all animals), starting from the interpretation of the "fox wedding" described in Akira Kurosawa's movie "Dream".

Conveying the concept that "people seek freedom by releasing their animal selves", the practical details in the design, such as the straps, multiple pockets and buckle decoration, come from exploring the commonality between the animal environment and the needs of urban life, while the plush coat made from recycled artificial fur is the best expression of responsibility for the natural environment.

On the topic of exploring nature, Altuzarra has presented us with a series of beautiful outdoor paintings this season.

Abstract prints extracted from flowers and insects, combined with bold and vibrant colorful ore colors, highlight the beautiful texture of multiple layers such as wool, fur and silk in the fold, elevating fashion into a wonderful kaleidoscope facing nature.

Plan your budget in advance for the next fall and winter, and high-quality leather items will once again usher in a big explosion.

This season Proenza Schouler celebrates its 20th anniversary, but Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez's clothes don't dwell on past glories, but rather on their loyal fans, For example, actress Chloe Sevigny, who opened the show, has adopted a new look that is more mature, crisp and flexible.

A large number of leather elements replaced the knitting and silk in the previous collection, but it was extremely soft and light, especially in the leather strapless dress that appeared in the second half of the show, showing Proenza Schouler's excellent balance of craftsmanship and creativity.

Founded in 2016, Khaite has gained a lot of attention in the last two seasons, and the secret of its success is the sharp and precise tailoring of designer Catherine Holstein.

This season, Holstein will design the show in the upcoming store, Khaite's first independent store, which she describes as "sharp power."

In the dark cool tone, the models dressed in black leather long coats and suits walked out along the narrow beam at a time, and their cool and solemn temperament was undoubtedly revealed.

Under the dim light, the leather refracts the light to highlight the high texture of the shape, as she said, "people will choose a brand again, must be because you have a good grasp of the fabric."

In contrast, Coach this season in the use of leather appears quite comfortable, in New York's Park Avenue Armory, designer Stuart Vevers reinvented Coach as the "home of American leather" title: On closer inspection, the textured leather worn by the models is actually splice processed by the stock fabric of the factory, which also means that each leather jacket, lederhosen and leather coat are connected in a unique way, in addition to breaking the traditional proportion of leather suits, the combination of leather fabrics and knitted items, but also bring us more autumn and winter wear reference.

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