Leave it to New York Fashion Week


We used to think of Brandon Maxwell as a dress house for late-night parties, but now Maxwell is trying to reinvent himself and bring the sophistication of evening wear to everyday wear, and this was evident on the runway this season, when he appeared in sets of black leather sexy and restrained, The edge of the ultra-short coat Outlines the soft beauty of the female body with just the right cut, while the thin band of the silver metal decoration adds more interest to the seemingly calm solid color shape. Maxwell's fashion world has bid farewell to the noise, and the restrained color and fabric make its fun between practical and subtle.

As one of the important birthplaces of feminism, New York naturally pays tribute to those legendary women in history on the show.

Portraits of Gloria Steinem, Cher, Tina Turner and Jane Fonda appear on the inspiration board for the new Michael Kors Collection, The surprise appearance of Gloria Steinem, the leader of the feminist movement who is more than 90 years old, has laid a solid and powerful 1970s American mark for the season: huge aviator sunglasses, crisp suit coat and high-waisted wide-leg pants, which all recall those who took to the streets to advocate for women's rights.

At the Jason Wu Collection show, designer Jason Wu chose Marlene Dietrich, another pioneer woman, as a reference. With her rebellious dress style, he emphasized the designer's own menswear design background, bringing a new perspective to the brand's feminine dresses.

"We've been living in an over-photoshopped, over-filtered world; I think it's good to get back to reality." So we can see delicate embroidered dresses wrapped in well-tailored coats and long coats, or black tights under a see-through dress, adding more practical to a slightly ornate look.

This season, Gabriela Hearst has gone out of her way to honor Eileen Gray, the architectural and home designer of the early 1920s, whose work was often overshadowed by that of his male counterparts during the era of the Modernist movement. Now is the time to reassert its design influence.

The bold color blocks in Gray's design and the clever structure in the lacquered wood screen have become the focus of Hearst's craftsmanship research this season, and the delicate texture and solid workmanship on the exquisite leather coats and dresses testify to the timelessness of Gray's creativity, and once again emphasize the power of female creators to be ignored.

"I did a lot of research on the feminist movement in the '60s. At the same time, they were so dressed up that I was really inspired by the attitude of that period." In the new exhibition hall of Snow Xue Gao, Chinese designer Gao Xue has a strong dress style of the 1960s. From Lana Del Ray's song Born to Die, to retro period prints, and news photos of the feminist movement of that year, Gao Xue's inspiration board displays various elements related to the 1960s. Guided her to mix colorful plaid, botanical prints and punk elements in her designs.

Perhaps one of the most talk-about brands at New York Fashion Week this season, Area is inspired by the process of fruit from fresh to rotten, turning pieces into installations co-existing with models, and a series of banana-inspired designs evoking Josephine Baker, The legendary face of the mid-1920s straddled pop culture, the military, and black rights.

Rodarte's return to the New York Fashion Week schedule did not disappoint, as can be seen from the layout of the show, the silver device announced that the party animals were about to get ready to go, the Gothic fairy dressed with a hint of sharp and strong personality appeared in front of the audience, velvet, sequins to splash on Rodarte's iconic dress, At the end of the show, a series of handmade dresses that looked like cheerleading tassels added a surreal glamour to achieve the "impact" designer Kate Mulleavy wanted to express.

If you're curious about the "old money" look of New York's high society, take a look at Wes Gordon's Carolina Herrera this season. Taking inspiration from the rebellious and elegant style of "Princess Sissi," the entire collection of gowns finds a clever balance between elegance and elegance. Ms. Herrera's signature shirt design is still there, but Gordon has recreated it in the form of see-through tulle for a softer touch.

After last season's modular design, Tory Burch continued to simplify, not only in the day look, but also extended to the dress part, "I wanted to challenge the traditional concept of femininity and beauty, and twist it."

"I don't think women need rules anymore," she explains.

Burch sees the corsets, long hidden under the tuxedos, as a game-changer, re-deconstructed and embellished with just the right amount of detail to transform them into a new choice of dress that is both intimate and unique.

At the same time, more simplified lines and more outstanding fabric textures are also a big look at Tory Burch this season, and they can be integrated into almost any woman's everyday wardrobe.

Even at a time when brands are encouraging us to live in the moment, Thom Browne is leading us to look up at the stars.

Thom Browne, returning to New York Fashion Week this season, staged a half-hour mini-stage play, "You have to see with your heart to see clearly." What is important is invisible to the eye."

The motto from "The Little Prince" came out with the soundtrack.

The seven planets dressed as the little prince, the pilot and the personification then came out in turn, and started the story around the aircraft device in the center of the show, whether you have read the original "The Little Prince", the fashion show that appeared in the evening of Valentine's Day undoubtedly aroused the rose in every audience.

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