The practice of moving a show into a theater is not new at fashion Week, but watching models wear new couture pieces to life for a stage show is a first for most people.
This seemingly unrealistic idea was realized this season with the Maison Margiela Artisanal collection, helmed by John Galliano.
With Martin Margiela in the theatre, the season is drawing to a close, and on the last day of the schedule, Kim Jones went light with Fendi's new couture collection, while Vetements once again released their new collection during Couture week.
All in all, since the outbreak of the new coronavirus in early 2020, this season can be said to be the most dynamic and creative couture creation stage, but also once again let the conclusion of "couture is dead", and the successive entrants and disruptors have injected a steady stream of invigorating drugs for the traditional couture fashion environment.
Drama is what makes John Galliano what he is.
During the last time he worked in the old Paris fashion house, Galliano showed his extraordinary ability to tell a story with fashion, imagining those classic moments that made people marvel again and again, and you have to admit that his talent is largely reflected in this ability to "image" fashion.
Video creation may be more exciting for Galliano than a show.
This explains why, in the more than two years since the epidemic was raging, the relatively limited Martin Margiela Artisanal series has been able to maintain its popularity and continue to gain applause both inside and outside the industry.
"I thought, wouldn't it be nice to embrace fashion, theater, digital -- all these cultures?"
Inspired by the stage play Dracula, he teamed up with the British drama company Imitation the Dog, and the supermodel lovers around him together, for the audience and the screen in front of the audience with the name of "Cinema Inferno" Cinema Inferno short play.
Models Leon Dame and Lulu Tenney play the lead roles in a dark and poetic tale of American Southern Gothic: A sandstorm engulfs the star-crossed couple, and in a shootout, they get injured while running, struggle through the fog, and drive through the Arizona desert with their past flashing before their eyes. "
They encounter so-called 'ghost Cowboys' who attack them. These people symbolize the representatives of the abuse of power, whether it is judges, priests, medical personnel, or certain toxic relationships, patriarchal society, etc..."
Galliano explained, "As you can see in the show, our protagonists constantly fall into these dreams. The whole process is based on a loop. An endless cycle."
Even if you don't understand the plot, it doesn't matter, these exquisite fantasy and a little wild haute couture fashion is the protagonist on the stage, although the changing lighting on the stage is not clear, but it does not prevent these exquisite works from sending out charm.
In Galliano's mouth, those "ghost cowboys" were attacked by sand, and the workshop team first sprayed sand on the fabric, and then transferred the texture to print, and finally designed the jacquard effect, and with wool, flannel, velvet, denim and other materials, to express the most delicate and realistic style.
In order to create the shape of Leon Dame swept by the dust storm, embroidery, flocking and beading techniques were applied to the fabric, combined with large area rhinestone decoration, presenting a gorgeous and decadent texture.
While Lulu Tenney's upper body is more romantic and innocent colors, lavender tweed check coat with cream green tulle smock and dress, and light pink latex headdress formed a clever collision, creating a dark plot of innocence.
In the evolution of the plot, there are two hot red shapes like fire can not be missed, one from the supermodel Karlie Kloss playing one of the nurses, in the red cotton wide coat looking at her, in ten years after Galliano again to achieve dream linkage; And another from the "drama" supermodel Anna Cleveland's coral red, feathered silk organza robe jacket and tulle gloves, the image of the evil mother into the eyes.
After the curtain came down, the guests successively received a huge amount of information in the appendix of the performance. The modeling information of different characters in each scene replaced the original fashion-centered numerical ordering, and drove us to recall the real and imaginary world on the stage under the guidance of words. Undoubtedly, Galliano was the one who entered the drama most deeply.
This isn't the first time Vetements has chosen to host a show during high Week. Six years ago, when the public was still trying to fit into those colorful thigh-high boots, Demna Gvasalia had led it boldly into haute couture train territory.
