With one million species on the brink of extinction, what vital role does the fashion industry play in restoring natural ecosystems? See below.

Today, we are all acutely aware that humanity is facing a climate crisis. But we are also facing a biodiversity crisis, a decline in the number of species on Earth. Shockingly, a 2019 United Nations report states that one million species on Earth are now at risk of extinction, and that we are experiencing biodiversity loss estimated to be 1,000 times higher than the natural rate - a disturbing trend that we must stop as soon as possible.

"We love some animals and we love to hear about them, but that's not enough - we need nature, it's necessary for humanity to flourish." Bambi Semroc, vice president of sustainable markets and strategy at Conservation International Foundation, a Us-Based non-profit organization, told Vogue. "Biodiversity and well-functioning ecosystems provide us with the fresh water and food we need. We have to keep these ecosystems healthy."

Protecting ecosystems is also an important part of tackling the climate crisis. Deforestation is clear evidence that humanity is losing the Earth's natural carbon sinks, which absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. "Nature has a central role to play in solving the climate crisis." Semroc added. "About 30% of the solutions to climate change must come from nature."

Thankfully, the fashion industry is slowly waking up to its impact on biodiversity. "Most of our raw materials come directly from farms, agriculture, mountains and forests." Says Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability Officer and head of International Institutional affairs at Kering. "It's having an impact on the natural world."

Growing cotton - which makes up one-third of clothing fibers - can lead to soil degradation and habitat loss, and the use of harmful pesticides can also damage species. In addition, leather is a product of livestock farming, which is responsible for 70% of the deforestation in the Amazon rainforest. Viscose is also one of the main causes of deforestation, with a staggering 150 million trees felled each year to produce the fibre.

"It's not necessary to cut down 800-year-old trees to make T-shirts." Nicole Rycroft, CEO and founder of Canada-based nonprofit Canopy. "Forest ecosystems are home to 80% of terrestrial species, with whom we share this planet. Habitat loss is the main cause of the current decline in biodiversity. The fashion industry has a huge carbon footprint."

Other materials such as wool and cashmere can lead to land degradation and disruption of the food chain, while synthetic fibers such as polyester, derived from mined fossil fuels, also contribute to land degradation and habitat loss (not to mention the millions of harmful microplastics that contribute to greenhouse gas emissions [4] and are subsequently released into the ocean).

What are the solutions?

More than 200 fashion brands have signed the Fashion Pact, pledging their commitment to restoring biodiversity, including supporting zero deforestation and sustainable forest management by 2025.

Kering, which owns the Gucci brand and spearheaded the convention, has also committed to achieving a net positive impact on biodiversity by 2025 and launched the Natural Regeneration Fund with Conservation International, which aims to convert one million hectares of existing farms and pastures to regenerative eco-agriculture over the next five years.

"Our biodiversity strategy has four pillars." "Daveu said. "First, to avoid negative impacts on biodiversity; Second, reduce biodiversity loss through scientific and material certification; Third, restore and regenerate ecosystems; Fourth, transformation - reaching beyond Kering's own boundaries and partnering with other industries to revolutionize the supply chain."

The fashion industry has made significant strides in the viscose space over the past few years, with Canopy working with companies like Stella McCartney, Eileen Fisher and Levi's to put pressure on suppliers to prevent viscose being taken from endangered old-growth forests. In fact, a 2020 report noted that 52% of the world's viscose now does not come from these indispensable forests, a significant improvement from 28% in 2018.

Regenerative agriculture, which promotes no-till and diverse crops, is receiving increasing attention for its ability to restore soil health and ecosystems. "Once the soil is really alive, you automatically stop using chemical herbicides because the soil is doing so well." Rebecca Burgess, founder of Fibershed, a California-based nonprofit, explains. "The soil also slowly becomes a seedbed for other plant species, like beautiful wildflowers, and then the native bee population thrives -- all these knock-on effects."

Brands such as Mara Hoffman are also now using Fibershed's "climate-friendly wool," which is produced in a way that also helps restore ecosystems. "For example, one rancher among our wool fiber pool partners has nearly completed 3,000 acres of endangered bird (sage grouse) restoration." "Burgess said. "It's fair to say there's a good synergy between habitat restoration and fiber production."

What should we do next?

Given the impact of raw materials on the planet, there is no doubt that the fashion industry needs to invest more in such initiatives and work more closely with its suppliers to bring about widespread change - while further pursuing recyclable alternatives. With the UN Biodiversity Conference to be held in China in May, 2021 is bound to be a critical year for biodiversity, so getting brands across the industry on board is essential. "We have to use this momentum to really push people to make real choices to transform the supply chain." "Daveu said.

For consumers, the first thing to realize is that the clothes we wear come from nature and the impact these clothes have on nature. "We can support brands that have policies in place [to protect biodiversity]." "Rycroft concludes. "When shopping for clothes, make sure to pick items that we really love and buy things that we will wear in five, 10 or even 25 years."