You need to know more about suits than he does


A successful man's taste is determined by his woman, at the end of the year in all kinds of parties, a decent suit is undoubtedly the best way to create a high-quality male image, no matter how his body, want to look exquisite with a sense of line, a suit will help you, a good suit is always the best sign for men.

English suit - Savile Row suit custom.

When it comes to British suit style, we have to mention Savile Street, which has the reputation of "Gentleman's Street" in Britain. It symbolizes the highest level of tailoring for women's and gentlemen's clothing.

Dignitaries and entertainers all have a hand-made suit from Savile's top tailor shop as a status symbol. Huntsman's boss has said his firm's high-end customer base is those with a net worth of around $10m.

Savile Row adheres to the British tradition in cutting, emphasizing the slim line with wide shoulders and tight waist, with thin shoulder pads and double slits at the back. Because of the wet and cold climate in the UK, the fabrics used by the British are generally larger in grams, and the chest lining part has also been thickened, which makes people appear more burlier in addition to keeping warm. Trousers tend to be high-waisted and economical.

There are thousands of variations on the details, such as making two jacket pockets diagonal, a style often worn by former Prime Minister Tony Blair. Savile Row tailors are impeccable in quality, the checked fabric will be made in the check, pocket covers, sleeves, large body without exception, buttons must choose animal horn grinding. Huntsman, Gieves & Hawkes, Anderson & Sheppard, Henry Poole & Co are some of the most famous shops on Sa Street.

Prince Charles wore a double-breasted suit from Anderson & Sheppard to the event. Savile Row and the British royal family have 200 years of history, starting with King George IV, almost all members of the royal family have worn Savile Row bespoke clothing.

In the British drama "Downton Abbey", from the aristocracy to the common people all have suits, everyone wears exquisite three-piece suits, and the elaborate decoration of bow ties, pocket watches and gloves makes the men look extraordinary and elegant.

Italian suits - three styles of bold use of color.

When it comes to menswear in the UK, we think of Savile Row, but in Italy, suits from Rome, Milan, Naples and Sicily have different styles of tailoring. In general, the Italian suit waist line is relatively loose, the shoulder pad is thicker, the front seam buckle position and the lapel position is higher than Savile Row Style, the back is generally not slit, and the color is bold and bright.

There are three main types of Italian suits: The ClassicRoman, Soft Roman and The Neapolitan. One of the most typical is Romanesque. The Roman style is also known as the "man's armor", the style is tough, shoulder pads are extremely thick, chest lining, Brioni's suit is a typical representative of the Roman style.

Soft Roman style suits, the style is obviously softer than the Roman style, especially in the handling of the shoulders, soft Roman style suits can be considered to be an improved version of the British suit spread to Rome.

Domenico Caraceni Rome uses the soft Romanesque style. The Napoli style first appeared in Naples, Italy, also known as the Neapolitan style. The biggest feature of this style is that the shoulder is "take the pole" and can only be done by hand, the shoulder is more round, more relaxed, slightly wrinkled, and the function is to let the wearer move easily without restrictions. There are two famous Napoli style suit brands, one is Rubinacci, the other is Kiton.

American suit - casual, light and liberal.

American suit main loose, light, the pursuit of casual and comfortable. It is the first batch of mass-produced suit version in history, it has no shoulder pads and waist line, armholes are large, pants are generally not pleated, not cuffed, the initial American suit consumer group is positioned on Ivy students, until the end of the second World War American suits began to enter the upper class.

The earliest American suit was designed by the old suit company Brooks Brothers, and Brooks Brothers' suits have become the official brand of the president of the United States.

Comparing the cut of the Huntsman and BrooksBrother in Savile Row, it is obvious that the Huntsman has a slimline waist, while BrooksBrother is relatively loose, which is also one of the characteristics of American suits.

What is suit customization?

There are roughly three types of suit customization: Ready to Wear, Made to Measures, Bespoke:

Ready to Wear is a custom tailored suit in the lowest content of a practice, the general suit shop resident tailor will determine the sleeve length and pant length for the customer and then make a relatively simple adjustment to the finished suit, the master's craft requirements are not high.

Made to Measure is also known as "push version" or "set version" in the industry. There will be a lot of different sizes of sample clothes for customers to try on, according to the fitting situation, the different parts of multiple sizes or a partial adjustment of a version after the production of clothing. This way of customization can satisfy most ordinary customers, if you are demanding or belong to a special body type, this approach may not meet your requirements.

Bespoke is the highest standard of customized suits. The industry has a very strict set of requirements for Bespoke. Only when the requirements of the standards are met can they be called Bespoke.

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