Today's China is also in the historical process of establishing fashion discourse power. From the enlightenment of fashion in the 1980s to now, Chinese fashion is gradually finding its own voice in these 40 years.

The most famous alternation of the old and the new in the history of fashion began in Versailles in 1973.

In the early winter of this year, the French and the Americans started a war in the name of fashion in the Palace of Versailles outside Paris. Among them, France sent a delegation of designers led by YSL,

Givenchy and Pierre Cardin to fight, and the stars were shining. The American delegation included five designers, including Oscarde la Renta and Halston, and 36 models, who sang and danced with great fandom but were insignificant in the eyes of the French.

The matchup attracted celebrities from around the world. Under the stage, more than 600 celebrities such as Grace Kelly, Princess of Morocco, Christina Onassis, daughter of the Greek shipping king, and artist Andy arhol were all present, drinking wine, they were waiting for a result that was enough to rewrite the history of fashion.

In the end, "Americans conquered everything with their sewing machines" [1]. Although it has been a copy cat behind France for decades, on this night in Versailles, the more novel and lighter American style is like a light that breaks through the night, making the hierarchical French fashion circle crazy.

After this battle, the United States got the "high fashion pass" issued by the French, and Halston, a symbol of sexuality and freedom, also became the spokesperson of the new force of American fashion.

The European-centered theory that ruled the fashion circle for centuries began to collapse, and the United States, which had no aristocratic tradition, came to power, opening the prelude to the global popularity of American style.

However, the battle between old and new forces in fashion is far from over, and the war soon burned from Versailles to the other side of the ocean.

In 1979, the Chinese people, who were still wearing blue shirts, suffered two fashion shocks at the Great Wall. Once there were French models dancing in rainbow-colored dresses by Pierre Cardin, and once there was Halston and 27 Americans wearing sunglasses and fashionable sportswear.

Both the French and the Americans came prepared for their first visit to China. Pierre Cardin brought 220 pieces of clothing and a fashion show to Beijing's Cultural Palace of Nationalities.

Halston's journey was designed to promote American fashion, starting in Los Angeles and passing through Tokyo, Beijing, Shanghai, and Paris, with a choreographed group of migratory birds that changed more than 500 outfits in 24 days. [2]

At this time in China, the spring breeze of reform and opening up has just blown away the days of men and women and children wearing gray, blue and green. The people's attitude towards fashion is hungry and crazy, and any new wind of fashion blows through, it can quickly detonate the whole country.

Girls willingly line up for hours outside the Wangfujing Yimin store for a $14 embroidered dacron shirt; In 1978, when the Japanese film Manhunt was released, Chinese men took to the streets wearing the same trench coat, raised collars and straightened backs.

Two years later, the first imported American TV series "The Man from the Bottom of the Atlantic" was launched, and the male lead Mike Harris became a popular cargo brother in China. You could replicate authentic American fashion by wearing bell-bottom pants,

flowered shirts, and a portable tape recorder, and wearing those exaggerated, light-colored goggles, and keeping the adhesive tag on the upper left corner of the lenses.

Fashionistas dare to try new things, but for the vast majority of Chinese, fashion is still a wary test for each other. They were originally contraband. They were first popular in the South and then brought by trawlers to the North, where they gradually found their way into official, legal, state-run shops.

In 1984, Changchun Film Studio released the first fashion film "Popular Red dress on the street", the female model worker in the cotton mill put on a red sleeveless dress, excited. Did not expect the female colleague looked serious to advise her, "exposed too much, put on a shirt is almost".

A year later, YSL held a 25-year retrospective of his work at the National Art Museum of China, the luxury brand's first major exhibition in China, which attracted many Beijingers to pay out of their own pockets to see the show. Students participating in the exhibition also opened up: "A piece of clothing is worth millions of dollars!"

It was Beijing in the '80s, a well-deserved fashion focus. New fashion blowing from overseas has greatly expanded people's imagination of beauty, but it is still unattainable, people yearn for it, but can not easily own it.

Until the end of the 1980s, a group of "walking ghosts" spontaneously came to sell wool under the overpass opposite the south gate of Sun Yat-sen University. A whirlwind of fashion came from Xiangjiang, which began to stir the fashion lake all over the country.

These "walking ghosts" do not think that the small stall at the gate of the year will gather more than 20,000 merchants and more than 100,000 people in the next 20 years, and form a huge market cluster as the center of the circle.