How to make each season's cooperation can trigger strong expectations in the fashion circle? The secret to Jean Paul Gaultier's success is his eye for the most noteworthy and creative designers in fashion to join his couture team. From Chitose Abe, Glenn Martens, Olivier Rousteing and now Haider Ackermann, he has surprised everyone with every choice.

Haider Ackermann has been in the spotlight since it was announced last October that he would be guest designer for the season, and away from the red carpets of Tilda Swinton and Timothee Chalamet, we're all wondering what he's up to, This time, Gao Dingxiu is also his first new work released since the epidemic three years ago.

As expected, Jean Paul Gaultier's smile on the stage shows how successful Ackermann's couture creation is. "It was like a love affair between me and the ladies in the studio."

From the first look, you can sense his devotion to this love affair, and the precise cutting of the blade is never missing, and the stand-up collar suits, long coats and silhouette coats that he excelled in are repeated, while at the same time the essence of Gaultier's style -- tapered corsets and bright colors. The high-saturation navy blue runs through the details of the design, and the collision of various special-shaped materials and structures reveals science fiction colors in the gorgeous, which may be a must-have in the wardrobe of the next generation of social elites.

On the other hand, even if the showiness of cut and color is dazzling, when we look back at Ackermann himself, his understated modesty is all the more valuable amid the aggressive, even murderous, looks around him: "I have no sense of humor! I have my seriousness and Jean Paul has his generosity and joy - we are two different worlds. But at the same time, we have a lot in common. Because we all love women, we adore women, we respect women." This kind of heartfelt emotion is also the reason why the collaboration can reach new heights again this season.

The leopard on Shalom Harlow's chest, the Wolf on Naomi Campbell's shoulder and the lion on Irina Shayk's dress created the first hot topic of this season's Paris Haute Couture fashion Week and drew criticism from animal protection groups.

In fact, if we can cut through these superficial representations and get to the root of the inspiration of these beasts, perhaps we will not make hasty binary evaluations.

The so-called leopard, Wolf and lion all come from Dante's Divine Comedy in the 14th century, and the Inferno in his trilogy is the inspiration for the design. Each of the animals mentioned above points to the narrative of the text, and Dante regards them as symbols of desire, pride and greed, while the brass hood that appears later in the show corresponds to the friendly giant that Dante meets in Hell. The images of good and evil are interwoven, reflecting Daniel Roseberry's inner entanglement and doubt.

As one of the most high-profile designers of the moment, Roseberry's every move has set a high agenda, and the accompanying creative twists and turns are also obvious. "This collection is my tribute to skepticism," he wrote in his show notes. "I wanted to move away from the technology I knew and understood and instead opt for the 'dark wood,' where everything was scary but new."

Re-examine the role of mother-of-pearl, gemstone inlay and fragmented jewelry in the haute couture collection, and even add it to the superb metal smelting technology to make it a complete "jewelry armor".

"I like the idea that when people come to a show, they don't know what they're going to see." Words are like clothes, to the brand classic Schiaparelli Shocking! Perfume bottle based to create a crisp waist shape like an hourglass, but also in the details of the water.

At the end of her show notes, Roseberry wrote, "One cannot exist in isolation from another. It reminds us that there can be no heaven without hell; There is no sadness without happiness; Without the torment of doubt, there would be no ecstasy of creation. What I pray for myself is that I will always remember that in my most difficult days inspiration is just not going to come, and I remember that it is impossible to ascend to heaven without first going through the journey of fire, and the fear that comes with it. Let me embrace it forever."

From "Inferno," it remains to be seen whether Roseberry's future will continue with the trilogy's "Purgatory" and "Paradise."

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have been exploring a "very new couture" and have made several cake-dress themed creations in their collections, but on the haute couture runway this season, they have been able to play with these seemingly no longer surprising bulky dresses.

These works by Horsting and Snoeren, placed in the portfolio of any graduating student, will evoke a sense of absurdity that I was afraid my teacher would ask me to go out.

But in Viktor & Rolf's show, we had already decided that these clockwise rotating dresses must be some kind of satire, "a ridiculous interpretation of the haute couture ball dress stereotype."

Horsting and Snoeren sharply seized the current haute couture design and aesthetic errors, celebrities around the world by wearing these seemingly gorgeous but redundant gowns to demonstrate a certain "sense of superiority", the core of the empty boring and further let these carefully created perfect image suspended in the air. The world on either side of the phone's screen has become increasingly fragmented, Snoeren says: "There's a disconnect between what we see and the physical properties of the product."

On the other hand, we're used to judging a dress (or even a hot event) we've never touched between the zoom of the screen, but think about it another way: is delicacy equal to endless rhinestone embroidery?

Does Haodin have a hard aesthetic standard? The influx of information seems to give us more criteria for judgment, but it actually makes the cocoon of information more and more unbreakable.

Fortunately, established brands such as Viktor & Rolf and more are trying to make the switch.

The 4 days of each season of couture fashion week is far from enough to summarize the seiko and concept innovation of hundreds of years of inheritance, and while enjoying the creation of beauty, we must also admit that more and more high-end brands are working hard to transform themselves into the future, in order to "not gently into the good night", although the show has come to an end, but the workshop is still moving forward, let's see you next season!