Take the baton from the master


The young people in their 20s are no longer young, and may have changed their roles to become the parents or even grandparents who asked, "What are you wearing?" What brands need to do is always speak directly to the constant 20-year-olds. In the current context, Paco Rabanne breaks away from the stereotype of a traditional French fashion house, allowing the younger generation to rediscover the history of the brand and make it interesting for them. For Julien, "There are many ways to communicate with the younger generation, but the most important thing is actually to be sincere beyond the clothes.

The new generation is great for marketing but can't market too much, they don't want to be manipulated on any level. I have always lived by the values of diversity and inclusion and tried to pass it on. The younger generation is conscious consumers, they are aware of the world and the things around them."

It is not new for fashion brands to develop more diversified products such as perfume, beauty and lifestyle to attract the younger generation of consumers or different positioning groups with relatively lower unit prices.

In 1969, Paco Rabanne signed a contract with Puig to launch his first fragrance "Calandre", which achieved some success. Julien Dossena follows the path of its predecessors, putting the perfume line into the map of the revitalized brand, and the "Pacollection" perfume was born.

It is a bridge between Paco Rabanne's fashion, and although the perfume is constructed in a completely different way, the brand values between the two are consistent in Julien's view.

"The desire for perfume and makeup is very abstract, and I was new to both before entering them, which led to some almost naive creativity." According to Julien, the Paco Rabanne makeup line, which he helped develop, will be launched in 2023.

Around Paco Rabanne in the '60s, a loyal group of women gathered who evolved in style with him, a feat for a young brand at the time. At the time, Paco Rabanne was one of the few people interested in women's bodies.

By designing metallic clothes for women, he broke the traditional femininity of the time and allowed them to reclaim their bodies. He pursued his modernist vision with a radical aesthetic that was his alone, accompanied by the liberation of women.

"Paco Rabanne used metal to create an almost weapon-like female figure, like a warrior in the Amazon rainforest. She decides her own body, she decides her own desires, she decides this perceptual perception that borders on danger." "Says Julien.

After more than half a century of evolution, female consciousness has been awakened in a greater extent and a wider area. This strong female image, which has existed since the 1960s, has evolved with The Times.

"Paco Rabanne women are active and efficient, they attack and they defend. It's time for women to begin to have a voice, and many women, and some like me, have waited a long time for this moment. It's also evolving in a way to maintain that value in a more pragmatic way."

Julien looks at the women around him, some of them are giving birth, many of them are working, some of them are taking care of their families, so they have to juggle between taking care of their children and working, maybe playing sports, maybe having a love life.

"I give them the elements, the tools, sometimes almost the weapons, to be who they want to be and who they need to be."

I design shoes for them to walk fast, because they need to walk fast. Choose more stretchable materials for them, allowing them to move freely without losing style and a clear attitude."

From that exhibition hall at the Hotel George V in Paris in February 1966, Paco Rabanne's name had a fateful association with "futurism." Paco Rabanne is an innovator, so for Julien, "Paco Rabanne has to be a brand that is always innovating." It's like a technology research lab. In the late '60s, Paco Rabanne wanted to abandon everything that existed at the time because he thought it was backward and old, and he was obsessed with the idea of' futurism '.

Like many artists, designers and writers at the time, he wanted to start a cultural revolution."

Today it seems that the "futurism" studied by Paco Rabanne in the late sixties seems almost retro to us, and we might even say that Paco Rabanne is "retro-futurism".

More than half a century later, in September 2020, the three metal dresses at the end of Paco Rabanne's Spring 2021 collection were embellished with delicate sequins that glinted like exotic objects but also had the power of armor.

It is considered to be one of the most "futuristic" works of Julien Dossena. "For now, 'futurism' is' futurism 'for then.

If I insist on this' futuristic 'concept, it may be a bit too' futuristic '. It's a game about time, and in it, we have a lot of freedom."

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