In the rapidly changing fashion industry, fashion houses and designers are engaged in another round of "musical chairs" war, can be selected by big fashion houses, become a generation of masters succession, can undoubtedly bring them a moment of scenery.
However, after returning to the studio, in the face of the brand's heavy design heritage and the critical eyes of current fashion critics and consumers, how should they play their strengths, gain a firm foothold in the rapid replacement of the old and new in the industry, and lead the brand back to the public's vision?
For me, success is not determined by whether the outside world likes or dislikes my work; The highest compliment should be 'his designs look so different from everyone else's'.
From the label to the signature font, Elsa Schiaparelli defined the brand with her own "Shocking Pink", a sparkling satin yet striking dress that added a more exaggerated and dramatic structure and layering in the new era by Roseberry. Like the "hanging ear" dress in the autumn and Winter 2020 haute couture, the pleated light fabric reflects more stunning design effects, and in the spring and summer 2021 Haute couture manuscript, the pink fabric is abstracted as the blurred dense around the waist, which is fascinating.
There's so much information in people's eyes these days, and when it comes to couture, there's a reflexive image that comes to mind that is soft and very feminine, and I want couture to look more powerful, and I want to challenge people's stereotypes of couture.
Elsa Schiaparelli's embroidered shawls with celestial themes, completed in collaboration with Lesage Workshop for her Zodiac collection in 1938, are her ultimate combination of fabric, embroidery and decorative arts.
With Roseberry at the helm, the Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture collection once again uses this classic design concept to highlight the exquisite embroidery skills of the workshop, transforming the cape into a gown, which is more grand and stunning.
What I'm doing is taking elements from the brand's surrealist DNA and haute couture heritage and blending them with the cultural environment we're in now to create something interesting, fresh and engaging.
Also in 1937, under the joint idea of Elsa Schiaparelli and artist Salvador Dali, the birth of the sensational fashion history of the "shoe cap", which is both a satire on the sense of order of high fashion and full of jokes.
In Roseberry's reinterpretation of this classic, from the manuscript of the Autumn/Winter 2020 Haute couture collection, it is enough to see that the line of high heels upside down on the top of the head is higher, sharper and stronger.
Now, two years later, Roseberry has further brought the surreal essence of the fashion house to the Autumn/Winter 2022 ready-to-wear collection, designed by hat master Stephen Jones.
This skeleton dress is where my world and Elsa's meet, and it's the piece that resonates with me the most. No one else but her would present couture in this way.
In 1938, Dali presented Elsa Schiaparelli with a sketch of a woman's skeleton, with the words "Dear Elsa, I like the expression 'bones on the outside'", and Schiaparelli lived up to the expectations, creating this famous "skeleton dress".
In the Spring/Summer 2020 couture collection, Roseberry gave these raised bone lines a gorgeous upgrade, replacing the bony lining with an outer jewel bead on the halter sheath dress, and beaded metallic flowers along the arm and finger joints on the gloves made of sheer organelle, as beautiful branches bloom from the bone.
I always tell my team members, you did a great job, next time it will be ten times better! You know, being the creative director of Schiaparelli is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, a great opportunity to realize your dream! So the only thing I have to do is give it everything I've got and give it everything I've got.
In the 1930s, sculptor Alberto Giacometti created a lot of accessories made of bronze and brass materials for Schiaparelli, wonderful people, animals and even buttons shaped body organs, so that the accessories of clothing become the focus of the modeling.
Roseberry has now found his own goldsmith in French jewelry designer Marine Billet, who created everything from the exaggerated metal ears, masks and armor on the runway to the broncho-shaped necklace Bella Hadid wore on the red carpet. No matter what unconventional ideas Roseberry came up with, she was always able to take the plunge and produce satisfying results.In Pieter Mulier's design, founder Azzedine Alaia's sculptural cutting style was also used to improve the modern white shirt, so that it can be worn as a delicate dress, appearing in the winter/Spring 2022 and summer/Fall collections.
I wanted this belt for my debut from the beginning.
We found a leather with a reflective film that looks like a mirror.
I think it instantly modernizes it.
That's the way I like to handle it: don't change it too much because it's already perfect, just make a few tweaks.