When Helen Mirren returns as Queen Catherine II in the latest royal series to rival The Crown.
As with its storyline, the costumes for HBO and Sky's new four-part miniseries Catherine the Great are epic, with Helen Mirren's character owning more than 60 outfits. After playing Queen Elizabeth I and Queen Elizabeth II and winning an Oscar, an Emmy and a Tony Award, Helen Helen is no stranger to royal roles.
Some of the dresses weighed as much as 33 pounds and included a bustle, two petticoats, two corsets and a burqa.
The garments are almost entirely covered in hand-embroidered gold and silver silk threads, each made from luxurious brocade and velvet originating in Rome, Venice and Milan.
Behind these regal costumes is designer Maja Meschede, who was also the costume designer for Maleficent and The Duchess.
The story of Catherine the Great (once known as Catherine II) is one of scandal, intrigue and power.
Russia's longest-serving leader (who reigned from 1762 to 1796), she came to power after overthrowing her husband, Peter III.
She is credited with reviving the country and developing it into a major European power - the period under her rule has been described as "Russia's Golden Age".
There are many books in history that describe her as a sex addict who had many lovers, but she didn't." "We wanted to portray her as a strong woman, a very intelligent woman.
Industry know-how
When creating the costume, historical accuracy was crucial for Meschede. She read some biographies of Catherine II, Peter III, and her predecessor and aunt Elizabeth I, but that doesn't mean she didn't employ some modern techniques for convenience.
"We tried to make everything as light as possible," Meschede says, "but everything was actually very heavy, but Helen never complained." She said, 'It helps me walk straight, I feel like Catherine.' 'We used a few tricks to make it easier - there's a small zipper at the bottom of the bra that Helen can actually pull herself. We also used safety pins, double-sided tape and zippers."
The series covers Catherine's later years and her romance with military leader GrigoryPotemkin, played by Jason Clarke.
In the beginning, Meschede relied on muted tones, plus pearls and gold, to bring out Catherine's more feminine side.
As the story progresses, the Queen's clothes gradually become dimmer to reflect her deteriorating mental health. "We worked a lot on color to show that even though she was a successful empress, there was sadness [in her life]," Meschede explained. Meschede explains.
Catherine and her complexity
Meschede cut some of the work for himself. In addition to dressing Mirren and Clarke, there are other main actors to consider: Gina McKee's handmaiden Countess Bruce and the various armies (Catherine's Imperial Guard, Prussians, Ottomans, Cossacks and Crimean Tatars, to name a few).When the custom-made costumes for the main cast were completed, Meschede and her team borrowed some costumes from Italy to be worn by numerous other characters.
What was Meschede's biggest highlight?
The "Transfiguration Ball" in the first episode is a real historical event initiated by Peter III's predecessor and aunt Elizabeth I, who requires guests to cross-dress at the ball. Meschede designed a lavish gentlemen's outfit for Mirren and dozens of gowns and corsets for the actors.
"Courtiers have historically taken these kinds of balls very seriously," she said. "Men don't just borrow clothes from their wives to wear, the borrowed clothes don't fit well. They made their own clothes, wore wigs and made up for the dance. During the two days of shooting, we were so happy. For men, wearing a corset is very fun. They all had the same reaction: 'Poor women, how can they wear such clothes all their lives?' '"
It was important for Meschede and Mirren to portray a character like Catherine as a complex yet human figure. "Catherinethe Great is one of the most powerful women of all time," Meschede concluded. "She leads a very successful army. But at the same time, she's a very sensitive woman. We wanted to bring out this softer side of her.
