Compared with the Renaissance, the Italian tradition of creating beauty was more vividly expressed in the 20th century. The history of modern Italian menswear began in January 1952 with a fashion show at the Grand Hotel in Florence.
Giovanni Battista Giorgini, the famous fashion manager, had always held womenswear shows in the Sala Bianca showroom in Palazzo Pitti, but during his January 1952 show, He added male models and put them on the runway alongside female models. The male models wore colorful tuxedos made from Shandong silk by the Roman brand Brioni.
The brand was created by Nazareno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savini after the liberation of Rome in 1945. This is the first menswear show on the runway.
B.artman, a well-known Manhattan department store, decided to introduce Brioni's men's and women's collections.
In 1954, Brioni crossed the Atlantic for the brand's debut show in New York.
The stories that follow are part of history.
Since then, men's wear has officially entered the field of fashion.
Brioni originated in Rome and is still the center of its activities in Rome. But there is another reason why Italy has a unique place in the fashion network - there are tailor professional schools in all regions of the country, and each school focuses on its own style. From north to south, Milan, Florence, Rome and Naples are different. The Romans fired the first shots, but the center of fashion production after World War II moved north to the industrial and technologically advanced capital of Milan.
After all, northern Italy has always been a stronghold of silk and wool textile production.
True, there are great men's designers from southern Italy.
Yet wealth and high-quality manufacturers still seem to be flowing north. From the late 1950s to the 1970s, Carlo Palazzi and Bruno Piatte1li in Rome made headlines with their sophisticated designs, Rubinacci and Attolini, two bespoke shops in southern Naples, are equally well known.
From the 1960s onwards, however, one designer from Piacenza became the most notable object: Giorgio Armani. In my opinion, Armani has always been more famous for men's wear than women's wear. In 1954, after giving up his medical career, Armani became a menswear buyer at Milan's Renaissance department store.
After that, he became an interior designer for several Italian brands. Before creating his own label in 1974, his main client was the Cerruti Group in the 1960s. During this period and the next decade, he softened the lines of men's bespoke clothing and laid the foundation for his future success. The fashion press is always saying that Armani's designs are "unconventional," "sensual," "deconstructed," "basic" and "feminine" - and it's all true. Whatever the word, the point is the change itself, and he gives us a new understanding of the cut of the modern suit.
Before designing, Armani must have started thinking about deconstruction early on. He started by simplifying the structure of the traditional tailored jacket - suit or blazer. In this way, Armani changed the way men dressed.
Armani has also made a conscious effort to change men's business attire.
To enhance the comfort of the English blazer, he removed the stiff lining and padding in favor of softer, more textured fabrics, loosened the cut by lowering and widening the shoulders, lowered the neckline, moved the buttons down and slightly increased the length of the jacket. In the end, the jacket was more comfortable to wear and looked looser, with a baggy feel, as if it had been worn for years - in short, it looked relaxed.
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