GUCCI design team in the continuous adjustment, the brain drain.
Davide Renne, Alessandro Michele's former chief womenswear designer at GUCCI, has been poached by Moschino. Sadly, Davide Renne died of a heart attack just nine days after taking office, before we could see what Moschino would look like.
Simone Bellotti, GUCCI's director of menswear and special projects, has left for Bally, replacing Rhuigi Villasenor, head of fashion label RHUDE, after just 14 months on the job.
Rochas' new creative director, Alessandro Vigilante, also worked on the GUCCI design team, following Alessandro Michele for many years.
The Rome-based design studio was also in turmoil when it moved to Milan to work with new creative director Sabato De Sarno. Some staff at the design studio refused to leave and launched the first strike by the creative team in the brand's history.

Sarah Burton, former creative director of Alexander McQueen

Turmoil also exists at Kering's smaller brands.
Sarah Burton, creative director of Alexander McQueen, is stepping down after presenting her show at Paris Fashion Week on September 30, after 12 years in the role and 14 years with the brand's founder, Lee Alexander McQueen. Now, the brand has appointed a new face, Sean McGirr, to take over the role. Sean McGirr also started out as a stylist and later worked as a fashion designer for Burberry, Uniqlo, Christophe Lemaire, Dries Van Noten, JW Anderson and others. From his resume, it can be seen that Kering Group no longer wants McQueen to exist as a haute couture brand, and will turn to commercialization.

Chloe's new creative director Chemena Kamali
Richemont has snapped up the number one position in its fashion business.
Chloe split with Uruguayan designer Gabriela Hearst and appointed 41-year-old German designer Chemena Kamali as creative director. This is the third time Kamali has joined Chloe, having previously worked for two of Chloe's most successful creative directors, Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller.
The tough sustainability rules championed by Gabriela Hearst may be coming to an end. Richemont also fired Chloe CEO Riccardo Bellini, who had brought in Gabriela Hearst, and replaced Laurent Malecaze from Dunhill, the group's in-house menswear brand.

Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada invited Fabio Zambernardi to join them at the Miu Miu 2024 Spring/Summer show
The smooth transition period of the fourth generation of the Prada Group has also caused a series of personnel changes. Prada's management has made a series of changes since the arrival in January of Andrea Guerra, a career manager who helped 35-year-old Prada family scion Lorenzo Bertelli take over the family business.
Miuccia Prada's husband, President of the Prada Group, is Chairman of the Board of Directors, and Paolo Zannoni, Chairman of the Board of Directors of the Prada Group, is Executive Vice Chairman. Miuccia Prada is President and Director of Fondazione Prada, focusing on the design of the foundation and the brand.
Although Prada's two co-creative directors, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, worked closely together, there was a new turnover of mid-level leaders in the group's design field. Design Director Fabio Zambernardi, who worked for Prada for 40 years, has retired. Gianfranco D'Attis, CEO of the Prada brand, promoted Luigi Preziotti, head of women's design at Prada, to head of the Prada brand, while Dario Vitale took charge of Miu Miu, sharing Zambernardi's former duties.

Brett Anderson walked for Ann Demeulemeester's Spring/Summer 2024 collection, a rare example of the brand using celebrities as models
Choosing to promote old employees from within the brand is a safe way to deal with the current personnel turmoil.
After star designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin left after only five months, Ann Demeulemeester promoted menswear designer Stefano Gallici from within the team to take over. He made his debut in September with Goatskin frontman Brett Anderson on the runway.
After Tom Ford left his own brand, his right hand man Peter Hawkings became the creative director of TOM FORD brand. His first collection, released in Milan, was highly reminiscent of Tom Ford's classic style.

TOM FORD's new creative director Peter Hawkings made his final appearance at the Spring/Summer 2024 show
It is worth mentioning that Estee Lauder Group and Zegna Group operate different businesses of TOM FORD, the former is responsible for the brand's beauty business and knowledge industry, the latter is responsible for fashion and accessories licensing, and the Marcolin Group's eyewear licensing.

The job of Domenico De Sole, the former chief executive of TOM FORD, was split into two parts, with two chief executives appointed for each business. Former TOM FORD BEAUTY executive Guillaume Jesel reports to the Estee Lauder Group as President and CEO of TOM FORD, Lelio Gavazza, formerly BVLGARI's Executive Vice President of Jewellery Sales and Retail, reports to Zegna Group as CEO of TOM FORD's Fashion division.
Another idea is to choose a former colleague of the original creative director, Italian leather goods brand Tod's new creative director Matteo Tamburini and just left his predecessor Walter Chiapponi, from the Bottega Veneta team, is the brand's ready-to-wear line of the lead designer.

Peter Do's first Helmut Lang collection was unveiled at the flagship New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024
Will talented designers still be used?
Other companies consider a designer's reputation. Helmut Lang's use of Peter Do may be something new in the fashion industry this year. The brand has been quiet for too long after losing its founder. For his Yeezy, Kanye West has recruited former "king of the trend" Russian Gosha Rubchinskiy. LANVIN even hired rapper Future as its first guest creative director after the departure of former creative director Bruno Sialelli in April.

But none of this is as topical as Phoebe Philo's return.
Phoebe Philo has launched her first collection for her eponymous label after three years of hype. In a post-pandemic launch with no runway shows and only online sales, Phoebe Philo demonstrated her unmatched appeal to both loyal fans and secondary market speculators. The PHOEBE PHILO Edit A1 collection sold out immediately after its launch, including a $7,000 toffee suede XL CABAS bag. "Sold out" used to be considered "hunger marketing," but now they have a new word for it: "Phoebe Philo's business model is about creating a responsible balance between production and demand." An environmentally responsible attitude.
This is also how small brands survive, reducing marketing expenses and accurately managing inventory. The so-called return to rationality may be like this, to seek new ways of growth within a controllable range.