From the first day of the five-day Milan Fashion Week, it was determined to sound the clarion call for change and challenge the current quiet luxury and gray system. At Brunello Cucinelli's launch event, Cucinelli proposed the definition of Gentle Luxury for the brand. As the representative of Quiet Luxury in the past two years, Cucinelli believes that "Gentle" can better reflect the luxury nature pursued by the brand. Indeed, looking at the glitter and wire interwoven in those top fabrics, the excellent texture can not be described as "quiet", but compared with the bold of the traditional luxury industry, today's brand is more in the direction of low-key introverted design style.

Cucinelli's redefinition of his brand is apt to describe the overall look of Milan Fashion Week this season.

In the face of the weakness of the social environment and the downturn in consumption desire, the noisy conspicuous Luxury has become the past, blindly emphasizing the quiet luxury is also too cliche and boring, striking a balance between the two, to "Gentle Luxury" self-regard, may be the vision that every brand on the Milan Fashion Week schedule expects to achieve.

This spring, for Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno is crucial, from the first men's wear show in January, the second women's wear show in February, to the first series of women's wear officially landed in the store, he is facing a double review of creativity and business, belonging to his Gucci era is also officially from the show to reality.

But De Sarno resisted the pressure, and a woman in the gallery wearing one of his first season gave him the confidence to assert his creative vision: "I love my collection, but I'm happy to see other people love it."

De Sarno continues to work on his real-life creations. "I combine what I like and what I dislike to create new collections," he says.

This so-called fusion is also a balance between the two extremes, so we can see the luxury of long coats and casual hoodies with dazzling sequins, geometric arrangements of woven jacquard textures, in fact, the pose of herons, a variety of knitted, tulle slip dresses, and bunt suits that continue the first season of women's collections.

"I never have a theme, my theme is clothes." In this way, De Sarno is indeed one step closer to his own expectations, and one step closer to people wearing Gucci on the streets again.

If De Sarno is exploring the possibilities of everyday styling, Kim Jones, Fendi's womenswear artistic director, is interested in bringing culture into the mix: "I was looking through the Fendi archive in 1984. Various sketches remind me of London: Blitz Kids, New romantic music, the rise of tooling, aristocratic style, Oriental style... It was a time when British subcultures and styles were becoming increasingly popular around the world, while absorbing elements from other cultures.

English elegance that doesn't care what others think is still unhurried and echoes Roman style."

But instead of indulging in cultural references, Jones incorporated seemingly independent sources of inspiration into the daywear beloved of mother and daughter Silvia Venturini Fendi and Delfina Delettrez Fendi, paying homage to them, It is also the embodiment of Fendi's modern female image.

Low saturation colors, solid workmanship, sophisticated fabrics, and the clever use of Roman sculptural motifs and wonderful accessories all provide a practical reference for everyday shapes. "Practicality belongs to the design tradition of Fendi. The Fendi family has always been very conscious of this in terms of dress."

"It's aimed at women at work," he explains. "It's easy to work and fun to look at."

In the eyes of Donatella Versace, women wearing Versace must be confident and powerful, but that doesn't mean they have to show their fighting form all the time. In the Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, we can see Donatella's very clear transformation, she began to try to use more diverse materials to highlight the power of women.

Putting aside baroque prints and Medusa heads for the time being (although this season's menswear collection also touches on them), Versace this season wants to experiment with using high-quality leather and soft tweed fabrics to outline hourglass waists and reshape the feminine body. In terms of the overall shape, more punk hair and makeup, more powerful music rhythm circling in the show, rebellious and radical emotional atmosphere is also flowing freely, Donatella has successfully stepped out of its comfort zone, but also unknowingly changed our inherent impression of some fabrics, a new and more plastic Versace is gradually emerging.

On the last day of Milan Fashion Week, Mr. Giorgio Armani is the usual anchor. Just a few hours before the start of the show, Carey Mulligan and Elizabeth Debicki on the SAG Awards red carpet once again raised the level of anticipation for the season, and everyone was wondering what the big show would contribute to this year's Academy Awards classic looks.

But Mr Armani did not do so by courting the media and the stars with a lavish collection. "I am who I am." At the age of 90, he still maintains his own style definition: "When I design my collection, I think about the women I meet everywhere."

Clearly, this is a collection that covers the needs of everyday life, but it is full of exquisite details. After sponsoring the TV series "Flowers", Giorgio Armani presents another flower scene with a dazzling array of craft decoration this season, from abstract painted prints, to crystal flower pattern embroidery and three-dimensional yarn flower decoration, even if these elements are interpreted by Mr. Armani thousands of times, but we will still be impressed by its aesthetics, and behind this, It reflects his decades-long passion for work, and even at nearly 90 years old, "I don't think I'll ever stop working because dressing people is my greatest passion in life."

"In the world we live in, what can we do?" After bidding farewell to the last season's global travel-themed fashion show, Matthieu Blazy gave his own thinking in the face of the reality of current survival, "The initial idea was to streamline the collection to almost only the function of wearing - not to reduce to the minimum amount, but to maximize the practical." I want to use fashion to create a monument to everyday life."

In fact, Blazy's answer was decidedly more ceremonial.