The death of Queen Elizabeth II affects the hearts of all British designers, and the show of London Fashion Week in spring and summer 2023 is covered with an atmosphere of remembrance.
London Fashion Week has always been the shortest of the four fashion weeks and the relatively youngest of the brands.
This season, the original five-day schedule was shortened to four days because of the tributes, but in this short, dense release, almost every show will feature a moment of silence - a moment that exists to honor Queen Elizabeth II.
The death of Queen Elizabeth II is only a week away from the opening of London Fashion Week, and major brands have come up with their greatest sincerity to pay tribute to the British queen who has a global influence. Erdem and Simone Rocha have attached layers of tulle to the shape. Harris Reed dressed the model in pure white while holding the Queen's favorite lily of the valley. S.S. Daley's models held candlelight watches in tribute, while Jonathan Anderson wrote a tribute to the Queen directly on their outfits.
As the only fashion show attended by the Queen before her death, designer Richard Quinn decided to change nearly half of the designs in his collection after learning of the tragic news. He and his team worked through the night to complete 23 black opening dresses in just 10 days, and even sewed the embroidered pieces on the dresses while watching the funeral ceremony.
Speaking after the show, he said: "The Queen's grace and kindness have touched him and so many others."
The dead are gone, and despite the melancholy tone of the fashion week, all the designers know that the best way to continue the spirit of the Queen and the city is to pass on the fashion and energy of London. Even if you don't want to give up, you must reinvigorate and let the world see the creative vitality of London.
There is no shortage of gimmicks and highlights at London Fashion Week, and this season it has been all about emphasising the relationship between fashion and the body.
JW Anderson's giant silver "egg" was almost the punch line of London Fashion Week this season, as were the tops made from an old keyboard and the sloping dresses inspired by goldfish in plastic bags.
After the show, Jonathan Anderson said, "Are we so caught up in the world of screens that we're merging with our phones? I think right now it's like another multiverse, one layer on top of another. I don't think these visions are about the future, they're probably more realistic, more a reflection of our own existence."
Christoper Kane, as always, is looking for new ways to interpret sex appeal.
His answer this time was to flex his muscles.
"I'm doing an autopsy" sounds clinical and scary, but Kane's expression verging on romantic.
Transparent vinyl is cut and reassembled in line with the muscles of the human body to become a see-through armor worn on the body of the model, a muscle mechanics map that resembles a medical diagram is printed on the dress, or as a shoulder strap, belt and other decoration.
All seemingly inexplicable, even absurd concepts, in his hands can emit a sexy romance.
Presumably, most people's understanding of David Koma comes from the star red carpet in the past two years, bold tailoring, eye-catching colors, and shining decoration have been his magic weapon.
But this season, Koma wanted to be more conceptual with his designs, starting with aquatic elements to create a spectacle of the underwater world.He studied the early data of American Marine biologist Sylvia Earle and her diving team, and combined the super-elastic silk mesh commonly used in diving with the iridescent fabric symbolizing the underwater world, even the traditional biker jacket and boots to give a magical color.
Last year's winner of the LVMH Prize, Nensi Dojaka, continues to explore the "body consciousness" that is currently hot in fashion.
At 10am on Sunday, when every show-goer wakes up from his weekend sleep, Dojaka's colorful corset design seems to bring people back to the night before.
In addition to iconic designs such as bra dresses and mini shorts, Dojaka has upgraded the craftsmanship and sophistication of the entire collection this season, creating a shiny texture with the same color sequins, which look more stylish and easier to integrate into the everyday wardrobe.
In contrast to the avant-garde concept, London Fashion Week insists on the classical romantic style of the brands.