On the last day of Paris Fashion Week, Louis Vuitton brought the spring/Summer 2023 women's show back to the heart of Paris, located in the central square of the Louvre (Cour Carree).

Nicolas Ghesquiere, the designer's womenswear art director, invited his friend, French artist Philippe Parreno, to create this huge installation, creating a unique show space, and Hollywood art director James Chinlund was also involved. Elevating this 12-minute fashion show into a series of captivating adventures.

Parreno set up a giant installation named "monster-flower" in the center of the show, the flower center is pointed high in the sky, the abstract red petals are surrounded by, but also like a sail supporting the front and back to stay here, metaphor Louis Vuitton's centennial spirit of travel.

The grandstand is spread out around the center of the flower installation, and the main structure of the runway is composed of black metal steel frames and transparent domes. The red curtain hanging in the corridor and the flashing lights are reminiscent of the humor staged in the circus in the past.

The sheer scale of the installations seemed to exert a unique magic on this season's fashions.

With the debut of model Jung Ho-yeon, Louis Vuitton's new season of strong "big" female image officially unveiled.

Ghesquiere began by playing with the proportions of various accessories, highlighting and enhancing the zipper details that would otherwise be insignificant on jackets and overalls to become the most prominent presence in each look.

In this way, the most common elements in fashion design are defamiliarization, but it has achieved a new aesthetic experience.

The zipper ring swinging in front of the chest can be regarded as an accessory like a necklace, and the zipper handle engraved with the logo of Louis Vuitton brand is also a delicate brooch. When things are changed in size, some functional changes will be completed.

Of course, Ghesquiere's magnification is not for nothing, and the oversized button design in the following two looks is a continuation of the details of his past work.

When similar elements have an intuitive comparison, it can be seen that he wants to try to subvert and innovate the courage of this season's style.

More details to compare taste followed, in the autumn/Winter 2022 collection in the umbrella deconstructed dress, this season changed into a striking leather coat, and embellished with a large Louis Vuitton logo clasp, both practical and full of decorative.

For the belt and buckle innovation amplification of the same wonderful, in the supermodel Wang Quyou interpretation of this leather belt, the buckle belt is stretched several times wider occupied the visual center, the original decoration of the waist into a personality of a strong waist.

The drawstring originally fixed on the overalls is not to be outdone, shuttling through the bottom of the leather pleated dress or the halter-neck blouse, highlighting the soft texture of the thick leather material, making the shape rigid and soft.

Be careful not to be fooled by Ghesquiere's "big trick." When seen up close and far away, subtle details can give people a completely different visual experience.

Perhaps your first glance is all on these wide necklines and shaped structures like the space fantasy of the 1960s, but the pleats throughout the design bring a more unexpected surprise, in the fabric to punch uniform holes, and then the fine leather strip in turn through, by adjusting the tightness can achieve a very different fold effect.

And these few trompe l 'oeil printed suits and jackets are also interspersed with his carefully arranged "smoke and mirrors".

There is another mystery hidden in the leather printed with the metal belt pattern that needs to be discovered. High-tech laser cutting sculpts the leather surface into a mesh structure, and the brighter fluorescent yellow and positive red insides are revealed during the walking and bending process.

The image of the lace fabric has also been played out, and the lace patterns restored with exquisite leather techniques are embellished on the suspenders and the chest. The lace fabrics made on the Raschel warp knitting machine enhance the overall lightness, but the patterns are more three-dimensional. At the same time, Ghesquiere decorated the fabrics with feathers and crystals, making the fashion a wearable art.

The seemingly random abstract embroidery printing on the surface is actually the first pattern printed on the fabric, and then completed by three-dimensional embroidery.

At the same time, even the rhinestones worn by the models became grand and gorgeous, like the stars in the night sky falling on the ears and neck.

Ghesquiere's preferred mix of jacket and cargo pants is not absent, but the cargo pants are made more dressy, first tied with elastic to create layers of wavy texture, then printed for a fantastic illusion.

At the end of the tour, Ghesquiere simply deconstructed the functional details of the tooling elements, creating four highly conceptual leather dresses that mirrored the opening scene and seemed to complete a transformation, with a more determined, strong and capable female image emerging. He hopes to use the change of scale size to break through the traditional norms of women and create an aggressive, but also powerful beauty.

The various new bags interspersed in the fashion show also make people laugh after scaling up.

These accessories, which were originally embellished on the bag, have now become the main force in the shape.

Whether it is a super-sized version of Cloche Cles key bag or a Tote bag evolved from a Vachetta leather luggage tag, we have the illusion of falling into the land of giants.

The body of the Twist bag is smaller, but the LV latch is larger, taking up almost the entire front of the bag.

The Coussin handbag really is a squishy pillowcase this time; The inner bag, which had been suspended in the large bag, was suddenly transformed into a master, and the latch, which was once as big as a pinkie, was now so exaggerated that it could even pass through the wrist; And the always popular Dauphine handbag, its geometric shape buckle also came up in this show a "big" upgrade.

But the most amazing is the square handbag inspired by the classic hard case of Louis Vuitton and the buckle of Petite Malle metal bag. The hardware arrangement tradition inherited from the time-honored box-making process has become the magic weapon for this bag to be brilliant, showing every detail of the essence of the brand's luggage production. Tells an enduring story.

"Louis Vuitton is no longer just a leather goods company; It is also a fashion company and we are very proud of the result after all these years." Ghesquiere said after the show.

In a moment, he will be in his tenth year as the artistic director of women's wear here, and through the creative innovation season after season, year after year, he has become more clear about his role in the entire system of Louis Vuitton - to constantly emphasize the origin and DNA of the brand and integrate it into the modern fashion system.

Although we have always seen him as a fashion designer who moves between the past and the future, in the Spring/Summer 2023 women's collection, he fully demonstrated his ability to focus on the present, not only to achieve a larger design volume, but also to complete the emphasis on tradition, but also to refresh the exploration of modern fashion perspective.