Officially from the show to reality


Continuing the persistent pursuit of craftsmanship, those most ordinary basic models have a new vitality, in a more unemotional way. The ruffled seams at the edges of the coats create an unusually soft silhouette, the color-block dresses flow as if Blazy were improvising backstage with the team, and the glossy parka creates a shawl of cut layers at the neckline to offset the dullness of the winter coats.

And even for the everyday, it does not affect Blazy's distance, like the passport stamp print texture of the dress, and like the ethnic silk scarf patchwork of the floor skirt, add a sense of ritual to the everyday dress, as long as you are full of fashion expectations, Blazy will surprise you.

In his fourth show for Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis proved his ability to set trends. There may have been plenty of olive green looks this season, but you'll still be impressed by Davis' collection of cashmere coats in the opening sequence.

Davis's vision is undeniably modern, but it follows a tradition that dates back to the brand's first decade, "celebrating freedom with clothing in the 1920s." This expression of freedom resonates with me, my heritage and Ferragamo."

But instead of choosing specific symbolic elements to fill out the collection, Davis confidently and fearlessly embraced the classic. From broad coats and stretch knitwear to flowing halters, with delicate leather bags and boots, Davis stayed on Ferragamo's established trajectory. The only "out" may be that red sequin dress like a fish scale, almost invisibly walking in the line of models, but really eye-catching, which may hint at another innovative potential of his, let us wait for the time to come.

It's enough to wear the coat and watch Max Mara on the runway. Creative director Ian Griffiths draws inspiration from the work of Colette, a writer who lived in a better time, to offer kaleidotable solutions for winter's warm chic.

"Colette evokes these great passions in very simple language and plain writing," Griffiths says. And the new series he brought also achieved such an effect. Around the classic colors of black, gray and brown, Griffiths expresses his elegant feelings for fashion. The seemingly simple knitwear is covered with touching curves and textures, and the back of the regular long coat is the layer of ruffled fabric like a cake skirt, and the sculptural fold treatment can be seen everywhere in this series. These are ideal choices in life enough to impress and plump a woman's wardrobe.

This season, Tod's welcomed the debut of its new creative director, Matteo Tamburini. By setting up the show in Milan's largest tram station, Tamburini is modernizing the craftsmanship of the brand's heritage and setting a new tone for Tod's fashion style.

Large hardware accessories have become a link between the shape and the show space, and the previously seemingly stiff style and material have suddenly become relaxed, the coffee-colored sleeveless leather jacket shows a texture like silk satin, and the trench coat and coat under the blues bring an excellent sense of wrapping and standing silhouette.

Tod's shoe-making tradition is also carried forward in the creation of Tamburini's new collection, the simple and classic design covers almost every occasion in life, of course, we can not ignore the extremely practical and low-key shopping bags and handbags in the arms of the model, reminding people of Tod's today as a modern luxury brand.

In addition to a number of brands in pursuit of Gentle Luxury texture, this season's Milan Fashion Week is also not a shortage of fashion houses trying to break through their own style, or to carry out the pioneer perspective to the end. I have to mention Diesel, who live-streamed 72 hours of backstage preparation before the show.

"This season we will show to the world; Viewers can get a behind-the-scenes glimpse of the preparations for the show via live streaming. The show was connected by live video call with Diesel fans around the world. Diesel is a fashion brand that strives for inclusion and equality, so it was only natural that we should reveal this behind-the-scenes content to the public."

Creative director Glenn Martens kicked off the show in this way, but it turns out that his behavior was far from a gimmick, and the collection itself was remarkable: Whether it's the sweat-stained effect of the iconic Devore burnt-out craft top, or the various wear and bruising techniques comparable to the illusion effect, it's an eye-opener to Martens' creative energy. "I like to make a design that you can't see through at first glance, and you can't help but explore more." "He said.

When it comes to experimentation, another face that must be mentioned is Marni creative director Francesco Risso. On the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the brand, Risso chose to hold the show in a cavernous tunnel covered with white materials in Milan's Central stadium, quite the sense of leading guests to re-explore the brand, and Risso and the team have recreated the same effect of the brand headquarters.

"I want us to get rid of all the reference points, the mood boards, the ICONS," and Risso's design makes that abundantly clear. "I want us to go with our gut."

The result was a vast array of sheer cuts and unembellished silhouettes, geometric capes and bell dresses that appeared almost disproportionately on models' bodies, hand-crafted plush smocks, hard-shell dress dresses decorated in hand-painted oil paintings, and a series of pieces that exceeded the conventional definition of fashion passed before the guests' eyes with barely time to react and think. In the midst of a down-to-earth, conservative collection, Risso made Marni stand out at Milan Fashion Week with an eye-opening collection.

This season, even Jil Sander, who has always had a highly rational style, has chosen to take a small step in the direction of sophistication and opulence, driven by Luke and Lucie Meier, and the limon-colored show space has already hinted at this dynamic atmosphere.

Chain mail head cover, huge earrings in the shape of leaves, metal tassels and other tough and shiny elements can be seen everywhere in the season show, and the corresponding, is extremely comfortable and soft clothing, delicate fabric almost no hard piping, instead of furniture quilted texture and fluffy cocoon profile, "we like this fuzzy outline, Soft lines." But clearly, they're also exploring the potential beyond Jil Sander's minimalist label, believing this season is just the beginning.

In the blink of an eye, the eponymous fashion collection created by luxury sports car brand Ferrari has entered its third year. Under the leadership of Creative Director Rocco Iannone, the brand has been constantly searching for its position in the industry, and after this season, we are seeing more optimistic results.

Iannone's ideas are very clear, interpreting the speed and passion of the fashion show from the three dimensions of color, silhouette and fabric. The opening red dress with wide shoulders was a standard sportswear look, followed by a long grey coat, borrowed from the sports car scheme, with a bold red lining that instantly evoked Ferrari's iconic interior design.

In addition, the streamlined silhouette of the sports car also inspired Iannone's creation, the dark blue patent leather trench coat was shaped into a waist shape, and the light dark red organza dress was shaped by the wind to flow, like a Ferrari. There is no doubt that Iannone is leading the brand to accelerate and achieve transcendence.

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