Old money, dopamine, Maillard... In the past six months, I believe that every friend who cares about fashion can not deny the impact of these trend keywords.

At some point, these phrases describing fashion trends have ceased to describe the material, color and cut of the design, but have extended to a broader situation, in the class of lifestyles, neurotransmitters, and even the processing response of the food industry, to sum up the feelings conveyed by fashion.

Coincidentally, their appearance reflects our needs at different levels, the elite life concept, the satisfaction of emotional values, and the enjoyment of indulgent taste buds are interpreted and reproduced in the context of fashion.

And in the just-ended 2024 spring and summer New York Fashion Week, these so-called popular keywords are no longer separate, but find a balance in the integration, similarly, between the old money and the new rich are also brewing about the style of "two-way", some long-lost faces returned to the stage of New York Fashion Week, announcing to embrace the new changes in the fashion industry, And the creative forces are also thinking about how to make their brands become the classics of the future.

Return is undoubtedly the most important keyword of this season's New York Fashion Week, and Helmut Lang, as the opening show, bluntly played up the mood of nostalgia and return.

Perter Do, a designer from Vietnam, took over the brand's creative banner and was tasked with finding a new footing for Helmut Lang.

Born in the 1990s, Perter Do is a throwback to the golden age of Helmut Lang, but it has to be admitted that the cargo vests, jeans, tight suits and parka that Lang brought to the stage of high fashion are already classic examples of Do's school textbooks.

Even if the personal brand is well received, Do still needs to respond to expectations by treating Lang's legacy in a measured and disciplined manner.

In fact, he delivers a safe enough answer sheet, with a wisp of neon color flying through his carefully cut suit, a patchwork of knitted and cotton basics, and Kusa's denim and jumpsuits that remind us of Lang's archives, but perhaps only as a warm-up for Do, who also makes it clear that he is still reading and learning from his predecessor's legacy. And bring it back to the public in a more "folksy" way: "We want to have a conversation with a broader population... Make the clothes reasonably priced and durable."

A full four years of New York Fashion Week Ralph Lauren also chose to return in this season, when the "old money wind" swept the world, Lauren's influence was undoubtedly pushed to the high point, which never compromise on the trend of change he once again full of creativity.

The show was built as an old warehouse of gorgeous and decadent interweaving, which seemed to convey the signal that the classic was about to be reborn.

From the opening of the burnt floral embroidered denim dress, our ideas were confirmed, and the western complex, the quiet luxury texture and the comparable high-quality craft flowed freely between the models' walks.

A series of black and gold styling in the middle of the stage has become a turning point in the style of the whole court, followed by the long-lost Lauren color match, even if the current old money trend is prosperous, but he did not ignore those who desire gorgeous colors of celebrities and new rich, after all, the fire of "Stars and Stripes and royal Blue" makes more people realize the possibility of this classic brand rejuvenating youth.

And when Christy Turlington led the supermodel team for the big show after the successful curtain call, about Ralph Lauren time did not end, the door in the background of the show was slowly opened, is about to greet the guests is a feast of luxury, the show will continue.

Of course, the mood of returning to the fashion week show must be mixed, like the designer brand 3.1 Phillip Lim who has been hibernating during the epidemic, and this New York Fashion Week is also his re-appearance after several seasons of absence.

We can see Phillip Lim adhere to the original style, but also actively catch up with the fashion industry's rapidly changing discerning taste, introducing more sporty elements in fine day wear, simple solid color matching also embellished with lavender, ice cream powder and grass green eye-catching items. And the flowing printed dress and urban cargo pants that appeared at the end of the show may be seen as his determination to keep pace with The Times, so that New York, so that the world will look at him.

New York Fashion Week has always been labeled as "commercial", but traced back to the source, this so-called commercial characteristics - simple, practical wear, reasonable pricing, but really can make the development of the brand more stable and long-term, but also more able to meet the actual needs of consumers.

And now, when the trend of minimalism is making a comeback again, the major brands representing the American style have also made every effort to extend new ideas in the basic style, making the design both commercial and interesting.

Tory Burch, the designer who put forward the concept of "modular" fashion, is undoubtedly the best at striking a balance.

In the past year, she has been trying to comb the design language of her creation in each season with standardized tailoring and comfortable wearing experience, so that seemingly simple clothes can be derived from a variety of wearing possibilities through modeling and overlapping.

"In a chaotic world, we ponder what effortless fashion is, clothing that frees the soul. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection uses modular cuts, feathery materials and intricate layering to create a crisp structural profile." "She explains about her spring/Summer 2024 collection.

While continuing the brand's signature design, Burch added "new modules" this season, including ultra-mini dresses, sculptural blazers, and U-neckline embellished tops and dresses.