It's not just Milan that feeds the "myths" about fabrics, craftsmanship, and color

It is also because many of the "enigmas" of the idea need to be thought through repeatedly in order to realize the trick

After watching this season's Milan Fashion Week, we can be sure that behind this "fan" is the "meter (beauty)" that is not stuck in the formula.

It is entering our vision and becoming part of the wardrobe of the future

Gucci Autumn/Winter 2023 women's collection is still co-created by the brand's in-house design team to fill the gap before the debut of new creative director Sabato De Sarno. Members of this large and well-defined team, many of whom have been with Gucci for a decade or two, know the creative styles of the past from Tom Ford to Alessandro Michele.

Therefore, in this series that connects the past and the future, the echo and series of Gucci's creative culture at different stages are launched, and the brand archives of different generations are juxtaposed, like a free shuttle that breaks the boundaries of time and space.

The opening diamond-embellished double-G corset was a striking combination of the bold sensuality of the Tom Ford period and the gorgeous vintage of Alessandro Michele, followed by extended fur coats, unisex suits, and see-through lay-ups, all finely tuned in silhouette and proportion to suit the current fashion trend.

At the end of the show, supermodel Guinevere van Seenus closed the stage to announce the end of this time and space trip, and it also makes people look forward to where the Gucci spaceship will go next.

After a well-received debut, Etro Creative Director Marco De Vincenzo decided to challenge himself by creating a new collection from the brand's 1970s Bohemian style, tapping into the prints and textiles that are permanent in the brand's history, a first for De Vincenzo. But he is well aware that these traditions must serve reality.

With a pleated print see-through chiffon dress wrapped in a safe, colorful striped cape, and a vintage floral pattern extending from knitwear to a straightforward patent leather jacket, De Vincenzo cut the continuity of the brand's classic Paisley print and rearranged it on textiles that were subtle but not dizzying.

"I feel like an archaeologist who has to face the past and at the same time bring its findings to the present," he confesses.

Chinese designer Rico is back in Milan with a new collection of his personal label Ricostru called "Reconstructing Ancient Roads".

From the name of the series, it can be seen that an Oriental journey beyond time and space is about to start. Designer Rico's inspiration comes from the ancient Tea Horse Road through the millennium, and tells the story of the whole series about "preservation", "dialogue", "transformation" and "reconstruction" through the thinking process of architectural restoration.

Non-genetic heritage elements such as traditional Yunnan handmade silverware, traditional handmade leather goods of horse bands, and ancient Dongba script are extracted and retained in the design, which has a dialogue with industrial craftsmanship, futuristic metallic fabrics and environmentally friendly leather. Through the brand's iconic "floating hourglass" silhouette in recent seasons, traditional culture is brought into the context of modern fashion. The simultaneous launch of leather goods, fashion jewelry and lifestyle products under this concept also foreshadows more imagination for future life.

Since the inauguration of Fendi womenswear artistic Director Kim Jones, the collaboration with members of the brand family has continued to develop, forming an increasingly strong creative golden triangle with Silvia Venturini Fendi and Delfina Delettrez Fendi.

This season, however, his eyes are on Delfina, the youngest of the three, as the best representation of Fendi women today. "I still remember Delfina in her blue and brown suit on my first day at work.

"It all started with Delfina," he explains. "I was fascinated by the elegant and chic way she interpreted Fendi."

Since childhood, Delfina has fallen in love with the mature and stable dark dress under the influence of her family elders. Her body has a calm temperament that is beyond her peers, which can be seen from the curtain call of every big show in the past.

Based on this, Jones used Fendi's exquisite craftsmanship to awaken the sense of luxury in women's everyday wear, while at the same time drawing inspiration from Karl Lagerfeld's autumn/Winter 1996 collection for Fendi, adding a different luster to the new season's knitwear and evening dresses.

With his latest collection, creative director Ian Griffiths wants to break the stereotypes we hold about brands.

He drew feminine wisdom from the 18th-century Marchioness Emilie du Chatelet, the great French mathematician, to incorporate an elegant romantic style into the modern woman's wardrobe, "when fashion was completely unenlightened." So I'm imagining how she would dress if she had the freedom, and how she would dress today."

The metallic camel-colored tapestry was shaped into a suit for everyday wear, and the crisp lines of black satin gave off the delicate look of bronze sculpture. There is no doubt that these shows achieved a clever balance of sensibility and rationality.

Blumarine creative director Nicola Brognano's design inspiration for this season was somewhat "unexpected", while he was still obsessed with getting new ideas from The Millennial era, model and actress Milla Jovovich starred in the 1999 film The Messenger: A still shot of Joan of Arc in The Story of Joan of Arc ignited his creative passion, along with the brand logo in the center of the show.

Fortunately, Brognano did not repeat the cold armor in the film, instead of the flowery pleated wrap dress, leather tunic jacket, the first two seasons of the hot butterfly bodice and low-waist pants have evolved a thick knit version, so that the brand has released a more exuberant vitality, "I just focus on what I have done in Blumarine so far," Try to push it forward and let it evolve into something new."

In both the traditional and modern sense, Italy symbolizes the highest level of craftsmanship and texture in clothing and footwear.