It seems like more than half a century


The spring/summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week came to an end during the November holidays.

As the last stop of the four major fashion weeks, the two-season Paris Fashion Week continues to absorb the most diverse and stylized fashion expressions in the world.

Although it is called fashion "week", the Paris show calendar can not be closed in seven days, and the same is true in the spring and summer of 2023, from September 26 to October 4, hundreds of brands in physical shows, online shows and static shows in a variety of ways to present the latest work.

When we looked back at the performances of the major brands at Paris Fashion Week this season and hoped to summarize the fashion trends and styles for spring/Summer 2023, these new collections inspired by different decades gave us a sense of time travel.

From the old movies of the last century, the long historical tradition in the fashion house, to the projection of technology and culture in different eras, all are reflected in the show this season, instead of combing the fashion trend itself, decoding the history and culture behind the fashion, and using fashion as a medium to understand the larger world, we may be able to get more energy from fashion.

For Chanel's Spring/Summer 2023 collection, creative director Virginie Viard's new work was inspired by Alain Resnais' 1961 film Last Year at Marienbad, The costumes of Delphine Seyrig, the lead actress in the film, were also designed by Gabrielle Chanel, which is a tribute to the tradition of the fashion house, but also recreates the elegance and eternity of women on the big screen more than half a century ago.

Givenchy creative director Matthew M Williams also chose to take the essence of the brand's classic haute couture design from the 1960s and apply it to the new ready-to-wear collection.

To this end, Williams toned down the street-cool style of his previous designs and asked Carine Roitfeld to style the show herself.

The classic little black dress, bow and other elements from the Givenchy archive have been re-interpreted into a more modern and modern pose, bringing the long history of the brand back to people's vision.

Of course, Roger Vivier, the shoe designer who set off the elegant trend with Chanel, Dior and Givenchy in the 1960s, is also a figure that cannot be ignored in the fashion process.

During this season's Paris Fashion Week, Gherardo Felloni, the current artistic director of the brand, followed the style code of Mr. Vivier to launch the new Spring/Summer 2023 collection, with the spirit of ingenuity and skilled skills, the most iconic themes continue to the present, presented in the theme hall full of history and cultural sense. Lead every guest into the beautiful art world.

When we think of Courreges, we think of founder Andre Courreges' space future in the 1960s, and now the brand's creative director Nicolas Di Felice wants to prove the vitality of this stylish old fashion house in different generations.

So he took the curvy lines of a zipper dress Courreges created in 1974 and applied them to the new collection of ruffled dresses and tops, deconstructing everyday basics to make Courreges classic elements more relevant to the present.

This season is the first offline women's show held by Dries Van Noten after the epidemic, from these extremely gorgeous printed fabrics and three-dimensional fold process on the show can be seen that Mr. Van Noten's desire for beauty is still strong, render an unprecedented optimism in the post-epidemic era, "Life can be beautiful, you can embrace color, Into the world of flowers..."

He used his experience during the epidemic to convey a positive signal, and these delicate and charming fashions are always delivering beauty and hope for us.

There is no doubt that Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello is at the top of the list of designers today who most respect the heritage of their brand.

His creations in recent seasons are even like a flowing fashion history, telling the legend of Mr. Yves Saint Laurent.

This season, he chose to look back to Saint Laurent's signature style in the mid-80s, with an ultra-long floor-length coat conveying a strong sense of luxury and a sharp aura, while a colorful hooded wrap dress is extremely close-fitting and lightweight, and the combination and collision of the two are just the right blend of classical, avant-garde and exotic.

Designer Wang Juui also revealed the style characteristics of the 1980s in the new collection of Uma Wang, the brand's representative neutral colors into a more modern geometric texture and architectural silhouette.

Beneath these visible fashion looks is the designer's focus on textiles and craftsmanship, the combination of many non-traditional fabrics and clothing techniques, echoing the nature explorer John Muir's literary depictions of soil, rock and desert imagery, expressing her theme of the "gaze of the wilderness" this season.

After presenting his Autumn/Winter 2022 haute couture collection in collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier, Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing seems to have awakened memories of 1990s fashion culture, This season's collection pays homage to the classics of Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood, with religious prints, fabric stitching, and corset recreations. Rousteing's reverence for the era can be seen in countless details, but even so, The collection will still inspire a desire to explore, because the '90s fashion industry created so many good marks to be revisited.

Saying goodbye to last season's eye-catching Pink PP, Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli injected a more casual side to the spring/Summer 2023 collection, significantly reducing the brightness of colors, while reintroducing earth colors into the creation of high fashion. Add a soft touch to the strong silhouette coat, half skirt and suit and trousers, reminiscent of the clean-cut, free fashion attitude of the early 90s.

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