London Fashion Week, where pioneers gather


Simone Rocha and Erdem continue to lead the field, while Chinese designers such as Yuhan Wang and Susan Fang have also won more attention with their poetic expressions.

"This collection is very much a reaction to the last few years. It's very much harnessing an emotion that feels like a powerful, feminine statement."

Yes, Simone Rocha's collection is undoubtedly more energetic and powerful, and its core comes from the use of elements such as flight jackets and parachute drawstrings, and of course, there is another surprise - the help of the first men's collection.

But whether it's men's or women's, Rocha's thoughts are the same: "I think clothes are sometimes an escape and a release, and for me it's a sense of protection, healing and an urgent need to move on."

There is no doubt that Erdem Moral I Oglu is a great champion of classical beauty, and the entire collection this season stems from his passion for history.

"Funnily enough, I actually started this season's design research at the British Museum," he explains. "I took the design team to see how the museum was restoring 17th-century etchings; And what they would do with a tapestry or a painting by a Dutch master."

After seeing how painstakingly restorers care for fragments of a robe from the 18th century, Moral brought these "traces of history" into fashion design, like abstract prints printed in a sketch painting, or fine fringes cut into printed fabrics and fixed to long coats. Of course, there is also the classic brocade elements of the brand, as if through time and space, so that the audience is in the sea of fashion history.

Also keeping to the romantic line was Bora Aksu, a dream show inspired by writer Henry Darger and artist Marcel Dzama, where the light tulle and princess dress structure incorporated 1930s-style military jackets, trench coats and blouses to emphasize the practicality of the design.

The addition of these seemingly tough elements is not to give a strong power, but to hope that soft and tough. "You don't have to be hard to fight," the designer said. Innocence can also be a force for good in the world."

Chinese designer Wang Yuhan, who has always conquered the fashion world with his classic romantic aesthetic, is also exploring the power of both strong and soft with his eponymous brand Yuhan Wang this season, and is looking skyward - three game-changing pilots: Li Xiaqing, the first Chinese woman to obtain a civil aviation license, Li Yueying, the first Chinese female pilot in the United States Air Force, and American female pilot and feminist activist Amelia Earhart.

"I tried to create a collection that celebrates the persistence and courage of women while highlighting the pressures they face," she explains.

The small details in the design are pointing to the sky where the female pilot walks, the helmet inspired by the flight helmet, the handbag and printed T-shirt in the shape of the airplane, and the dress printed with the blue sky, even if we are not moving, but the heart has gone into the sky with her fashion.

Susan Fang, who appeared on the last day of London Fashion Week, also hopes to complete her challenge with romantic fashion.

"It's actually easier to keep fighting in times of crisis, so I wanted to master the art of letting it be by exploring feelings of love and peace, accepting whatever is out of my control." "She said before the show.

But the beautiful tulle, feathers and embroidery, she was in control, the overlaying of multiple colors made people feel like watercolors, and even printed some patterns directly on the light tulle, the model walked in the same collection of fabric prints arranged by the pool, providing a refreshing visual experience at the end of London Fashion Week.

The most direct way to show vanguard and boldness is to use color. Michael Halpern's forte is to use sequins to make an already colorful color even more expressive.

The jagged colored sequin embroidery brings back memories of the extravagant club culture of the 1970s, while the fluffy colored wig pays homage to the Hollywood sex ICONS of the time, while also giving the overall look a sense of liveliness.

Chinese designer Huishan Zhang's presentation at this season's London Fashion Week has quite a sense of simplicity, and under the dazzling fabric is his consistent insistence on high-order details and excellent structural control, even the large area of sequin embroidery is also very elegant and decent.

Through simple and exquisite design, Zhang Huishan seems to reverse the completely unrestrained visual impact of fluorescent color system, becoming more delicate and slightly futuristic color, so that the imaginary world is more realistic and full of order.

In Harris Reed's world, color is the cornerstone of order. The large circular backboard, which is integrated into the costume itself, acts as a kind of self-created "halo" and what he calls "support" : "It's been a challenging two years... During these two years, I have been blown away by the incredible support given by the London fashion community. When faced with a big challenge, designers, models, action directors, casting directors, manicurists and editors support and inspire each other."

With these powerful forces at his back, Reed was also able to express his ambition more freely, allowing him to be more fearless in his use of color, but he also wanted to use the colorful fabric and silhouette of the collection to convey a deeper meaning - "Let's unite."

The Queen's death has prompted Richard Quinn to close the season of London Fashion Week by changing the launch date.

Although nearly half of the design was changed in the space of 10 days, we can still see his good color game in the second half.

Quinn is well known for his prints and has received many offers for cross-border collaborations with brands in the past two years, but the emergence of more solid color designs on the show, which has faded the colorful and bustle of prints, seems to indicate that he wants everyone to focus on the improvement of the brand's silhouette and craftsmanship, which may be a key turning point for him to enter a new stage of his career.

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