Chanel's spring/Summer 2023 haute couture collection was launched at the temporary pavilion of the Grand Palais in Paris, with a new collection by Virginie Viard inspired by Alain Resnais' Last Year at Marienbad in 1961.
In the pre-show trailer, Kristen Stewart has become the most loyal style incarnation of the series, taking the lead in wearing elegant black and white clothes.
"Whether it's her, or the other women performing my work, I need to feel that they like the clothes." But of all the people around me, her temperament is closest to Gabrielle Chanel, or at least closest to my idea of her. She understands Chanel, she understands the work of the brand. Under her interpretation, these works appear more modern. This collection, too, belongs to her."
She emerged from Le Champo, the iconic art-house cinema in Paris, wearing a jersey jersey top with an oversized bow and a long, beaded, embroidered skirt.
"Last Year at Marienbad" has just finished showing here.
In the shot of Chanel's old partner, photographer Inez & Vinoodh, the collision between haute couture and art is truly fascinating.
Set against the backdrop of Last Year at Marienbad, a suspenseful, bizarre and deconstructive black-and-white film, the models in this season's dreamlike elaborate costumes are setting off an artistic revolution that highlights the elegance and charm of Gabrielle Chanel's core concept - freedom of action.
The show was opened by Dutch model Rianne van Rompaey and closed by Swiss model Vivienne Rohner.
Rompaey took the lead in the interpretation of this look has become a highlight of the scene, the shirt design into the film many classic scenes, the black shawl makes the overall shape more elegant and smart, which the black camellia decoration at the neckline is undoubtedly the finishing touch.
In the film "Last Year in Marienbad", there were also many models of black gauze fabric.
In addition, as one of the iconic elements of Chanel, the camellia has been re-interpreted again and presented in a variety of ways in this dress, giving people a refreshing visual experience.
Like camellias, various light feather decorations from Chanel Lemarie camellias and feather shop also appeared in the show many times.
The feathered look also made an impression in Last Year at Marienbad.
Unlike usual, the big show added a little lovely romantic meaning, bows, ruffles and other elements interspersed in a lot of dress look, especially all kinds of high heels in the bow decoration, really exciting.
And the same romantic there are a variety of beautiful colors in this show, cherry blossom powder, green grass and so on colorful colors, to create a unique Chanel innocent atmosphere.
In this show also met an old friend of ours He Cong, she interpreted an all black knitted suit, which a lot of sequins embellishment let this model shine under the light, low-key gorgeous style.
This "shine" based on the tone of the single is also the focus of the show, in addition to the sequined black knitted pieces, all kinds of gold velvet dresses are also impressive, creating a new female image under the background of the new wave.
"The films we see that make us drunk, and the films we create for ourselves, Marion Bard, the New Wave, Gabrielle Chanel defined glamour, Carl, night, feathers, sequins, heels: I love how these images interweave," Viard says.
Chanel 2023 spring/summer ready-to-wear series is undoubtedly a colorful collage painting, the series of works freely walk between different styles of inspiration fragments, to construct a self-oriented imagination world, to charm as the theme interpretation of complex changes.
Champo, a cinema that opened in 1938 and is located in the Latin district of Paris, is known for its striking Art Deco exterior and, notably, is also a favorite place for important figures in the history of French cinema.
As another focus of the Chanel 2023 spring/summer haute couture series - the film "Last year in Marienbad", also has a close relationship with Chanel.
Delphine Seyrig's costumes in the film were designed by Gabrielle Chanel.
Instead of traditional costumes created specifically for the movies, Gabrielle Chanel's costumes were based on women's everyday choices, not only reflecting the glamour of the big screen goddess of the 1920s, but also revealing a combination of timeless charm and modern elegance, a costume design concept that was bold and forward-looking at the time.
Gabrielle Chanel, who had already established herself as a pioneer in the fashion industry and set the trends of the 1960s, was the perfect choice for the costume designer.
On screen, Delphine Seyrig shines in an elegant costume, complemented by beautiful jewelry.
One of the black chiffon dresses, a reinterpretation of Chanel's 1926 little black dress, was particularly impressive and quickly became the much-talked about "Marienbad dress."
The collaboration between Alain Resnais and Gabrielle Chanel in this film not only set a fashion trend, but also created a whole new concept of costume design.
After them, many New Wave film directors encouraged actresses to replace traditional costumes with everyday clothes, sometimes drawn directly from their private wardrobes.
The directors of the film art world also relied on the design talents of Gabrielle Chanel.
Her close friend and Italian director Visconti asked her to take charge of Romy Schneider's look.
The Austrian actress later said in an interview: "As soon as I put on the Chanel suit, I knew I didn't want anything else... Because I feel real elegance in it."
This Chanel 2023 spring/summer haute couture series also continues this ultimate elegance.
The whole show was presented in a variety of low-saturation but highly visual aesthetic color schemes, classic tweed coats, double C print dresses, black and white coats... The overall 71 sets of look adhere to the stable and dignified at the same time without losing a sense of fashion, there is a natural female charm.