This is the third collection jointly created by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, and it is also the continuation of the theme of "Sensory Possibility" for Autumn/Winter 2021 men's wear, which is called Evolution.
At first sound difficult to understand, in fact, this dialectical concept is very Prada. The whole series explores the middle ground of polar opposites.
This is first reflected in the design of the show, the fantastic space created by Rem Koolhaas and AMO, strong color contrast, artificial fur, marble, plaster walls, bring a completely different sensory experience.
In design, the gender line was blurred, and the same coats and silhouette patchwork coats on the men's show also appeared on female models.
The pinstripe suit represents classicism in a broad sense, but it is unusual in its matching -- the sleeves are rolled in a way that highlights the colored knitting underneath to emphasize the layers of the shape; Elegant suit skirt because of the slit design, you can glimpse the body, but also become casual.
As Miuccia Prada said: "This season's women's clothing is from the classic, subvert the classic, is for the evolution." Simple and easy to innovate - a simple change in material, cut or context opens up endless possibilities. It's also my favorite fashion."
The highlight of the collection was the overcoats in high-saturation colors, powerful squares and rounded cocoons, each with a unique silhouette.
There are also double-breasted boxcoats with knitted patchwork necklines, wide coats and intricately patterned boots, in the Prada world, simplicity and complexity are never opposites.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have always emphasized body perception and comfort.
Therefore, whether in the men's or women's series, there are a large number of slim-fit elastic jacquard knitted jumpsuits, through its soft and skin-friendly properties, to show the freedom of the body.
Jacquard knitting is everywhere, especially when it comes in new combinations with recycled nylon. Recreated evening gowns emerged as functional onesies, and the collision of knitting and nylon gave these pieces a new look.
Faux fur coats and fur shawls were presented in a variety of designs, and the way the models grabbed the collar was very classic, but also made people feel feminine softness and power at the same time.
There are also several fur capes with sequins inside, colored sequins "pouring out" like gems, and the full-body sequins are gorgeous.
In terms of accessories, there are many large handbags, such as the recent popular Cleo has appeared "enlarged version", more imposing.
The high-capacity zippered clamshell bags, made of bright leather or geometric knit materials, were held around the models' waists like briefcases.
The cutest is the specially created AirPods case, which has appeared on the show in the form of mini bags and "watches", and this season, the eye-catching colorful leather AirPods case is combined with gloves.
Prada triangle labels are out in force, cute stud earrings, and even fur coats are sewn with specially worn triangle labels.
In terms of footwear, this season's flagship ultra-thick waterproof platform sole design has a strong sense of presence.
After the show, Miuccia Prada spoke with Raf Simons, including architect and author Rem Koolhaas, fashion designer Marc Jacobs, Electronic musicians, DJ Richie Hawtin aka Plastikman and many other creative people in fashion, architecture, film, music and other fields, to explore the new series from a multi-dimensional perspective.
When it comes to what is "Prada sense", Marc Jacobs' interpretation is particularly accurate: we know Prada, is its extraordinary taste and eye for everything, its culture, intelligence and fashion sense. The Prada sense is Ms. Prada, her gestures, everything about her.
There is no doubt that with the addition of Raf Simons, we have seen more surprising changes in Prada.
New Prada, more diverse aesthetics
First of all, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons are two very successful designers in their own right, which means that they each have a unique and complete aesthetic system and design philosophy.
It is well known that Miuccia Prada was born into a wealthy family in Milan, originally wanted to be a politician, and studied pantomime for five years after getting her PhD in political science. When I just took over the luggage family business in the 1970s, I always felt that "fashion" was a little superficial.
Then she found a compromise: to express her opinions through fashion, even if it is to break the rules to create fashion.