The ultimate fantasy and powerful dress


Dior unveiled the Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture collection at the Musee Rodin in Paris and met the global audience through a live online broadcast.

An hour before the release of the couture collection, Dior shared the behind-the-scenes of the big show through social networks.

Through talking with the artisans through the segmented images, we also guessed that this haute couture series is related to embroidery and art.

With the beginning of the big show, a mysterious journey slowly unfolded.

First, there were poetic surrealist paintings by modern Indian artists Madhvi Parekh and Manu Parekh - the first time that Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of women's wear, has included a male artist in her collaboration.

"Madhvi and Manu's embroidery works are interwoven on the wall, creating a narrative between myth and realism that unfolds along the wall like watching a movie," Chiuri said on social media.

These paintings are not simply presented in the form of "paintings", through the outstanding embroidery skills of 380 craftsmen at Chanakya Workshop and Chanakya Craft School in Mumbai, taking 280,000 hours, the artist's brush strokes are vividly displayed through colorful threads and fine techniques, covering a total area of 340 square meters.

It is worth mentioning that after the big show, these works will be open to the public in the form of an art exhibition from January 25 to 30.

This is reminiscent of the Dior Autumn/Winter 2021 Haute Couture show, also in the Rodin Gallery, also in the Chanakya workshop, presented a 40-meter long embroidery masterpiece created by French artist Eva Jospin.

Scottish artist-curator and author Clare Hunter's book, The Thread of Life: A History of the World Through the Eye of a Needle, was the inspiration for this idea, which inspired Chiuri to speak out for women through the traditional craft of embroidery.

This is also linked to the most important "embroidery" in haute couture, because the craftsmen in the Dior workshop are created with "skillful skills".

"We are like artists in a workshop, creating something extraordinary with our craftsmanship and our vision of the fabric."

So says a young artisan in the workshop in a trailer released in advance.

In this season's show, the embroidery process is carried out by "decoration" and "fabric innovation".

We are more familiar with the decorative role of embroidery: embroidering patterns with silk thread, or stitching decorative elements such as beads and sequins on the cloth surface to make the fashion show a luxurious and beautiful appearance.

Especially this A-line white coat, the fabric is interwoven with A variety of embroidery techniques to highlight the complex and three-dimensional texture, but the overall is very modern and contemporary.

The second is the innovation of high-quality fabrics, which is more complex and requires a large and professional team as support - equivalent to the development of a new kind of fabric, but not based on technology, but through the inheritance of artisans to achieve artistic creativity.

For example, Dior's Fall/Winter 2021 haute Couture collection featurette reveals the fabric process of a double-breasted coat. From a distance, the material that looks like blue and white mixed textile thread is actually handmade by craftsmen, weaving the silk thread embedded in the pearl into the fabric one by one.

The technique is time-consuming and tests the maker's artists. Only when the pearls are placed in just the right place on the cloth can they create a natural and poetic texture.

In the spring/Summer 2022 couture collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri dazzlingly uses the most "rustic" off-white cashmere cut pieces to make an elegant cloak with embroidery stitching. The stitching detail is so hidden that it is mistaken for the decorative thread sewn into the entire cloak coat.

Also demonstrating the studio's prowess, we have to mention the luxury tights that opened the show: a complete fashion piece made up solely of crystals, beads and silk threads.

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