Explore the ambivalent middle ground


Miuccia Prada's women's collection launched in 1988 was full of "rebel" spirit. At that time, decorationism was prevalent, and her designs went in the opposite direction, using minimalist silhouettes to create feminine charm.

More famous is Miuccia Prada set off the "Ugly Chic" trend, launched in 1996 "Banal Eccentricity" spring and summer collection, breaking the stereotype of exquisite, sexy beauty.

Another example is the waterproof platform platform shoes that appeared this season, which are very Prada single products.

Overall, she most enjoys debating with herself: "Why does Prada have to be complicated?" Let's make it stupid. Why does it have to be fun? Let's make it look smart." Therefore, looking at her design, it is also full of speculation, seemingly contradictory but quite harmonious.

Raf Simons did not study fashion, he studied in the LUCA School of Art in Henk, Belgium, studied industrial and home design.

Raf Simons design fashion, it is not difficult to find the influence of industrial style. His architectural designs, understated and avant-garde elements subvert fashion from the perspective of youth culture and contemporary art.

For example, Raf Simons' first collection from his personal label, in 1995, was a big rebel, creating a fashion themed around subcultural youth.

Another menswear collection that caused a stir was his collaboration with graphic design guru Peter Saville in 2003. His album covers for bands such as New Order and Joy Division were printed by Raf Simons on street-style trench coats and hoodies. To this day, these pieces are still popular on the Archive market, with some selling for tens of thousands of dollars.

For many people, whether it is Miuccia Prada or Raf Simons, they themselves represent a certain aesthetic, a certain belief.

Fortunately, their cooperation is not a constraint at all. On the contrary, due to their respective cultural backgrounds and mutual understanding and observation of architecture, music and society, they provide more possibilities for the new Prada.

So in the spring/Summer 2021 collection, Prada's signature geometric prints appeared on the same collection as Raf Simons's signature slogan collage; In the past, the hoodie single item rarely appeared on the Prada show, and the classic mid-length umbrella skirt, provides a new modeling scheme for the fashionable young people.

Miuccia said: "I think the good thing is that [because of the Raf's involvement] you have the possibility to change your mind. You start to think differently because the other person is coming up with ideas you haven't had before."

Miuccia Prada gave a very specific example, she had not liked pinstripes before, and under the persuasion of Raf Simons, pinstripes appeared in the Fall/winter 2021 men's collection.

Raf Simons also said: "Working with Miuccia made me realize that I can be more open."

Every season of Prada,

Are responding to a changing world

For Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, fashion is an existence that conveys emotions and opinions, an observation of the present world.

This has been reflected many times in Miuccia Prada's previous design collections.

The still-popular Prada nylon bag, Miuccia Prada, was introduced in 1985. Using cheap nylon to create luxury goods, Miuccia clearly sensed that "the bags around at the time were either too formal, too ladylike, too traditional, too serious."

In the 1990s, Prada first launched the Linea Rossa sports series, made of nylon fabric and with a striking red logo, which was not only a challenge to the traditional aesthetic of Miuccia at that time, but also opened a new concept of fashionable sports.

For the spring/summer 2016 show, Miuccia Prada invited painter and director Christopher Chemin to design prints, using surreal paintings to depict "a religious sentencing ceremony between the rich and the poor", reflecting the turbulent international situation at the time.

Miuccia's support for environmental protection has always been reflected in Prada's fashion collections. Prada's autumn/Winter 2019 shows frequently represent luxury leather and fur, as well as nylon materials that are treated as silky satin, are environmentally friendly fabrics brought by high-tech.

In the past year, under the influence of the global coronavirus epidemic, most people's lives have returned to a more simple and authentic state, and the fashion collections released by Prada are closely related to the mood of the world.

Titled "The Show That Never Happened," Prada's Spring/Summer 2021 men's and women's collection reflects the reality of the global epidemic and the world shutdown through simple fashion.

Raf Simons once said, "I don't want to show clothes, I want to show my opinion, past, future and present."

2021 spring/summer women's series, that is, the first series after Raf Simons joined, the two designers under the epidemic have chosen to "do subtraction", the minimalist silhouette is formed as the protagonist, and the hot Cleo handbag and cat heel shoes are simple and modern pieces.

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