The fashion world loves stories of overnight success, and in the first two months of 2022, the halo has fallen on Glenn Martens.
Perhaps you are still unfamiliar with his name, but when it comes to the three heavyweight fashion shows that followed at the beginning of the year, he is behind the credit.
Y/Project Autumn/Winter 2022 menswear show, Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Glenn Martens, Diesel Autumn/Winter 2022... From Paris to Milan, people are talking about his name.
Who is Glenn Martens?
9 years as Creative Director of Y/Project
Jean Paul Gaultier's second guest creative director for the haute Couture collection
Diesel's first creative director in 43 years
Starting with men's design, opening a women's collection for Y/Project, and stepping on the haute couture stage at the top of the fashion industry at the beginning of the year, Martens's career history seems to be as fascinating as an inspirational story, and the dislocation and knots that were once turned around in the studio have been accepted, recognized, and even thrown into the spotlight of the haute couture industry.
But under the gloss of these brands and positions, Glenn Martens, 38, has more details worth us to know, he is another protagonist of fashion myth in the eyes of the outside world, but also the most ordinary boy who quietly struggles in the fashion industry.
Glenn Martens was born in Bruges, Belgium, a port once known as the "Venice of the North," but not a romantic one.
Martens grew up in a single-parent household, where his mother worked as a nurse and worked as a cleaner in her spare time to support the family, and he and his brother spent most of their time with their grandparents, receiving the strict discipline of a military family.
It can be said that Martens' understanding of the world as a child was basically equivalent to the historical stories described in various books. When he read the characters he was interested in, he would draw his imagination in his mind by himself, and he also loved to draw the clothes worn by these people.
Even though he rarely lived with his father, Martens's career as a sculptor influenced his academic choices.
After completing a degree in interior design at Ghent University, his ambitions were not limited to working on mirrors and stained glass Windows like his father, but at the age of 21 he was drawn to the Royal Academy of Art in Antwerp and submitted his only portfolio of sketches for home design.
"I'm always on the edge of the cliff," says Martens, not exactly an optimist.
Up to now, he still thinks that the reason for being admitted at that time is largely because his height of more than 180cm and well-proportioned figure can serve as a fitting model for other students. But in fact, with the painting skills developed since childhood, the love for fashion, and "stubborn temper", he graduated first in his class. He began working at Jean Paul Gaultier as a junior designer for the teaser series.
Martens, who came from a modest background, has repeatedly spoken of his financial difficulties in his early days, carefully planning his (now defunct) personal brand in addition to his day job at Jean Paul Gaultier, in order to make ends meet. He is also working with designers Yohan Serfaty and Bruno Pieters, as well as consulting with Hugo Boss."I'm a terrible assistant, I'm impatient. I don't want to listen to anyone. I always think I can do better or be different."
Martens, who has been open about his weaknesses in character and has spoken with a hint of strength, had his chance in 2013.
Three years after Y/Project was founded, original creative director Yohan Serfaty died of cancer, and when the troubled brand was looking for a successor, Glenn Martens's name came up in the short list.
"Probably because it's cheapest to hire me." Glenn Martens explains.
But there is no doubt that since then, both Martens and Y/Project have ushered in a crucial turning point.
