Why is Kim Jones' FENDI Show so exciting?


The FENDI Spring/Summer 2021 Haute Couture collection travels through time and space and reappears in Shanghai. This is British designer Kim Jones' first couture collection for FENDI, and the first womenswear collection for the artistic director, who has more than 20 years of menswear experience in the fashion industry.

What kind of change will he bring to this nearly century-old Italian luxury brand? Attract worldwide attention.

Zhao Wei, as the spokesperson of FENDI brand, believes that the most fashionable contemporary FENDI girl is in addition to the perfect qualities of intelligence, independence and kindness, but also has the pace of never stopping on the road, the pursuit of change, and constantly surpassing her former self, just like her characteristics coincide with the FENDI brand.

When asked what her favorite FENDI item is, Zhao laughs and says, "All of them, of course. I wish I had everything!" Then she held up the FENDI bag in her hand, "both stylish and practical bags are really hard to refuse, is an essential daily travel single item it!"

Zhang Ruoyun thinks that the most fashionable FENDI girls can have the charm of both boys and girls, and now more and more neutral styles are also in line with the traditional Chinese aesthetic concepts -- male and male, and male and female. However, the show itself is a blur of the concept of gender. In the process of the development of The Times, the stereotypes that distinguish between the sexes are gradually broken through. Neutral wind is also a unique charm.

Zhang Ruoyun also in the interview for our majority of men to provide advice on how to backpack more fashionable - you may wish to put your backpack on one shoulder, casual and versatile, he is recently back FENDI backpack, whether to sports or formal wear, are very practical.

Following the launch of the FENDI Spring/Summer 2021 Haute Couture collection in Paris, this latest collection, which combines extreme romance and timeless creativity, landed at the Shanghai Exhibition Center.

A live reenactment of the central theme of English writer Virginia Woolf's masterpiece (Orlando) : time travel and blurred binary gender boundaries.

The show also invited a number of celebrities to participate in the catwalk. Many familiar figures shuttle through the glass house, bringing the creative inspiration and emotions of Kim Jones to every viewer.

FENDI Art Ambassador Tan Zhuo opened the show with an all-star cast in a delicate silk suit.Tulle, beading, silk, embroidery... A moving feast conveys the charm of free creativity.

The history of FENDI is also a source of inspiration for this series. The velvet ribbon on a vintage handbag is re-interpreted with a contemporary perspective; The Karligraphy pattern on the boots is from Karl Lagerfeld's last season.

The dress, part suit and part gown, was inspired by a manuscript Karl Lagerfeld wrote years ago.Delicate femininity and handsome masculinity run through this series and appear in people's vision.Finally, Azalea appeared in a sculptural marble dress, marking the perfect end to the magnificent show.

Let's talk a little bit more about the behind-the-scenes story of the series.Kim Jones' first FENDI collection was a nod to the storied history of FENDI, inspired by the rebellious British sensibility of the Bloomsbury Group.

Since we mention the Bloomsbury group, we have to mention Charleston Farmhouse, the gathering place of this literary group active in Britain in the first half of the 20th century. The farmhouse, in East Sussex, England, was where writer Virginia Woolf's sister, English painter Vanessa Bell, and painter Duncan Grant lived and worked.As it happens, Kim Jones's teenage home in the Sussex area is close by. At that time, he often ran there after school to copy the murals and furniture there.

The Bloomsbury school was significant in Kim Jones' growing up and greatly influenced his aesthetic thoughts, which is related to the elegance of his works. This time, he is no longer satisfied with just being a collector of Bloomsbury works, but also to move this literary group with unlimited creativity and rebellious spirit to the stage of the post-epidemic era.The embroidery of the gowns and the ornate beading on the long sleeves were inspired by frescoes by Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant.

Marbling is not only an important design element for FENDI, but also the material that Virginia Woolf used to bind books at Hogarth Press, which she ran with her husband Leonard Woolf. The collision of two traditions makes marble the main visual language of this series.More central to the series is "Orlando," by writer Virginia Woolf, a core member of the Bloomsbury group.

In what the son of the English writer and garden designer Vita Sackville-West called "the longest and most fascinating love letter in literary history," Orlando gradually moves from the 16th century to the early 20th century, transiting from male to female.

Kim Jones's first couture collection was also gender-ambiguous, blending sophisticated femininity with handsome masculinity. His first collection for FENDI is the tone he sets for the new FENDI women - knowledge, creativity, and the elimination of gender antagonism.Now, we can understand why the male models wearing heavy makeup and dresses on the show are why. As the philosopher Judith Butler put it, gender is fluid.

In fact, FENDI's relationship with Orlando didn't just start in 2021. He is, as Kim Jones puts it, a "guest protagonist" who connects the dots across time and space through his own experiences.FENDI was born in Rome in 1925 as a small fur and leather goods studio. That same year, outside Europe, Woolf became increasingly close to Vita Sackville West (although they had met in 1922). Three years later, Woolf published Orlando, a novel based on Sackville West.

Kim Jones, like Woolf, was born in London. The son of a hydrogeologist, he went on his first trip to Africa with his family at the age of three months. After living and traveling in many parts of Africa and the Caribbean, he returned to England as a teenager, and then came into contact with the Bloomsbury Group, as we have just described.

The image of "Orlando" travels through time and awakens people. Kim Jones, who grew up in constant travel, also joined FENDI as an innovator after constantly traveling through space, injecting vitality into this Italian luxury brand with his British genes and global vision. Find a balance between history and reality, combining luxury with pragmatism."FENDI is about top craftsmanship, it's all about family, it's been run by the third generation of the family, and I'm the guest star, bringing it into the next generation." Here I am surrounded by strong, confident women who I love and respect and whose energy I want to bring to my work."

Graduated from Central Saint Martins menswear Design, studied under Louise Wilson; Half of his graduation works were bought by John Galliano; In the second year after graduation, he founded the brand of the same name and appeared on the Fashion East stage; He went on to consult, design and collaborate with more than a dozen brands, and headed the men's departments of Alfred Dunhill, Louis Vuitton and Dior. With a long resume, Kim Jones, who has thrived in the men's world, is starting to make a name for herself in the women's world.

In the past, he was only known as the industry's most acclaimed and popular menswear designer, but now it turns out that when it comes to women's wear, and even couture, Kim Jones never disappoints.

Virginia Woolf said of Orlando as she transitioned from male to female: "She knew the secret of both." As the only designer in the world to wear both men's and women's clothing for two major luxury brands, Kim Jones is learning the secrets of both genders. Will the world of women's clothing set off a new trend because of him? The future can be expected, let's wait and see!

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