Mixed releases of men's and women's clothes are quickly becoming a fashion convention, and the field of gender-neutral design is brimming with talent. From neutral styles to three-dimensional pieces that are fearless of gender boundaries, these emerging designers are injecting new blood into the fashion world.
Is it still necessary to deliberately divide men's and women's clothing? During the Fall/Winter 2021 online fashion week, many brands held mixed-gender shows, and a large number of emerging designers' gender-neutral works were particularly striking.
From Ella Boucht's signature stripped-down suits, to Anchovi's retro mix-ups, to Luis De Javier's sculptured leather coats - there's plenty of design to satisfy any fashion lover.
In addition, as people eagerly look forward to the new normal after the epidemic, fashion attitudes have been refreshed, and people are once again eager to express their true selves through clothing.
Oluwajimi, 25, Bridges traditional crafts and modern fashion design. He works closely with craftsmen in his home country, sourcing raw materials nearby, and presenting a neutral collection at Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2021.
What is the philosophy behind the design?
"We continue to open up creative potential based on ethical production while pursuing meticulous fabric and craftsmanship details. I believe that clothing should not be limited to gender, in order to measure the purpose of clothing as an object. I enjoy designing clothes for different genders and breaking down stereotypes about gender and identity."
What's your favorite look?
"I love a lace-up smock with a hand-knitted cardigan with a unisexes silhouette. The fabric for the blouse is made in Funtua; The cotton used is sourced locally and painted by hand in a batik process that has been passed down for generations. The cardigan, like the smock, is made by artisans in Lagos.
Obegero, 27, is from northern Spain and a graduate of the Central School of Art in SAN Martin; Not only good at neutral fine cutting, but also know how to turn the remaining materials of high-end brands into "waste".
Why position design as genderless?
"I want to create clothes that have soul and substance. The wearer can cherish these garments forever and express themselves freely through them. My design is about fantasy, and this is a time when fantasy is needed. I don't think genderless fashion is new, and that's how I've always looked at clothes. Society imposes rigid gender stereotypes on everyone, and my role as a designer is to break those stereotypes."
What does your design process involve? Have you been affected by the lockdown?
"Research is a key step. I don't usually sketch. Three-dimensional tailoring is my forte. Feng Cheng hasn't changed my workflow because our clothes are produced in limited quantities from leftover fabrics. But it feels like slow work and better work is starting to be recognized."
Who do you want to style?
"I've always dreamed of dressing British soul singer Sade."
The 28-year-old Finnish designer, who graduated from Central Saint Martins, uses hard leather to highlight sharp silhouettes. Ta's latest collection is called "Butch", which promotes the unconventional gender style and the unapproved "tough woman" image.
What was the inspiration behind the design? What was the design process like?
"Most clothing produced today still appeals to traditional notions of gender - I wanted to drive change through gender, homosexuality, sexual orientation, style and beauty. Before, when I was creating, I needed to go out and interact with other queer people. In the past year, not having a lot of opportunities to socialize has pushed me to open up new ways of thinking."
What is your favorite work?
"A light brown suit. The upper waistcoat comes with leather suspenders, and the lower body has micro-cropped suit pants with a black belt. The design perfectly balances leather, sex, skin and finishing.
Who do you want to style?
"Writer Roxane Gay, musicians Christine and the Queens, my best friend and illustrator Edith Hammar -- and many others."
Kwun Hyuk Kim, 27, excels at combining his own teenage experience with contemporary youth culture to create playful looks through pleasing and experimental proportions and fabrics, while blurring gender boundaries.
What is the intention behind genderless design?
"The aim is to bring back fond memories of childhood: by mixing and matching styles reminiscent of youth, but in a humorous way. Clothes shouldn't have a gender -- they should simply express themselves. The advantage of gender-neutral clothing is that our design can attract more potential customers, regardless of their gender; However, sizing may be limited."
What is your favorite work?
"I love the robe shirts from Spring/Summer 2021 -- casual and easy to wear for both men and women."
Luis De Javier's design focuses on female friendship, gay empowerment and sexuality. The 24-year-old made his debut at London Fashion Week 2020 after graduating from the University of Westminster. The Spring/Summer 2021 collection features a variety of ambiguous corsets, seductive leather accessories and vibrant shoulder pad details.
What does design mean?
"I wanted to connect my past life in Spain with my present life in London. I want my work to be both a challenge and a celebration of queerness, freedom, sexuality and ideals. I named the Spring/Summer 2021 collection 'Madre, Hermana, Amiga (Mother, Sister, Friend)' to highlight the friendship between women. Clothing should not be gendered or used as an instrument of isolation or separation. Consumers should be able to express themselves without worrying about the judgment of others."
What are the indispensable helpers in the design process?
"My friend and creative director Betsy Johnson. She is the heart of the brand and I am privileged to be able to work with her."
