The Hong Kong-born, London-based designer explains why the fashion industry still has a long way to go when it comes to diversity, and how his latest collection is actually an ode to his grandmother

Robert Wun once used three words to describe his ethereal design style: "escapism, futurism and feminism."

Born and raised in Hong Kong, China, the 29-year-old studied womenswear design at the prestigious London College of Fashion before launching her eponymous label in 2014 and has since established an otherworldly design aesthetic, It has attracted the attention of many stars, including Solange, Lady Gaga, Cardi B and Celine Dion.

With female empowerment as its core design philosophy, Wun specializes in pioneering creative design that celebrates the female form. His Autumn/Winter 2021 collection is meant to pay tribute to the most important women in his life, and each piece is as true as ever to his flair for refinement.

"The collection is called Armour and is in honor of my grandmother who passed away last year. I wanted to create an army and go to heaven with her, "he said." Each look is named after a woman who inspired me, my sister, my mom, all my friends."

Where did your interest in fashion come from?

"When I was 11, I met a cool girl a few years older than me at a church near my house, who was just starting to study fashion design, and she changed my perspective on everything. Then I started to love shopping for second-hand clothes and changing them to suit me."

How did your background of birth and upbringing in Hong Kong, China influence you?

"I always felt that I needed to get out of the culture to be who I really am. Now, I realize that it was this culture that taught me how to work hard, and it still affects me to this day."

Looking back to your time living in London and studying at the London College of Fashion, how did that experience shape you as a designer?

"I remember being told to my face in my first class that my portfolio was childish, and I was devastated. But I started looking around and it opened my eyes, and I saw what excellence was, and I got over it. If I didn't love this city, I wouldn't be who I am, and I wouldn't still be living here. Even though London is a multicultural place, as a foreigner you always have to work harder if you want to get ahead."

When did you launch your own brand? What's the process like?

"After graduating in 2012, I started freelancing, but I had already made my first collection in my bedroom. I met an investor through a photographer friend who believed in the vision I outlined and gave me the capital to get started. But after a few years, my sister saved enough money to buy back the shares, so now the company belongs to her and me."

How do you define Robert Wun aesthetics? How has the portrayal of women changed since the beginning of the brand?

"It's a celebration of feminism and femininity, but that doesn't mean it's just for women." What's interesting is that [the image of women] hasn't changed that much - it's still that crazy woman who lives in another dimension, powerful, controversial, everywhere."

Let's talk about the Fall/Winter 2021 collection. What are your design inspirations and references?

"I lost my grandmother last October and it changed my life. From the time I was born until I left Hong Kong, I slept in the same room with her and we were very close. Everything I love about women and feminism is because of her. I recorded everything on camera because I wanted to put a beautiful end to this relationship by myself."

Can you tell us about the main fabrics, cuts and silhouettes?

"The idea behind this collection is to create the illusion of armor by manipulating materials that look like metal, but are actually made of cloth. The detail design in the shape of a swallow was chosen because it was my grandmother's favorite bird, from her hometown of Hainan. Through the armor, there is a soft ruffle cut into the shape of a dovetail, giving the feeling of hardness and softness."

What music inspired the design of this collection?

"When Little Runaway by Celeste came out last year, it was around the time I lost my grandmother, so that was the song I played the most during that time. It encouraged me to design around that sadness and made the collection happen."

You've styled a lot of celebrities - who would be happy to see wearing your creations?

"I love seeing Awkwafina and Solange wearing my pieces. Celine Dion was special, too, and my parents were so excited. I would love to dress singer Yseult - I love everything she stands for."

What are your hopes for the future of fashion?

"The biggest change the industry needs is accountability for using diversity and inclusion as a facade. Why not put people of different races and colors in key positions and give them real power? That way, you can actually preach and compliment them, rather than just do something half-done."

Looking back at yourself as a young man, what advice would you give him?

"You have to work really hard and learn the business side as quickly as possible - it's stressful, but once you find the balance, it helps you design better." Call your family often. Please don't ignore their calls. Most importantly, remember that you don't need anyone to approve of you and what you do."