Motion direction plays a crucial role in fashion shoots


How did the action director come to play such a pivotal role in the fashion world?

"It has a lot to do with the fast pace of our visual culture. The years before 2000 were the golden age when romanticism gave birth to the fashion image. Back then, the crew flew abroad and spent three weeks shooting a 10-page set. Now, with double the amount of work expected to be done in two days, plus video and social media content, there is a need for someone to work with the photographer to guide the process."

What skills does it take to be a successful fashion movement coach?

"Curiosity, intuition and adaptability are essential. It is important to have a thorough and comprehensive understanding of how the human body moves and guides others through the body, a skill that goes beyond one's own ability to dance or move. You also need to have a broad knowledge of fashion history and culture, as everything needs context. "The job is very interactive, so you need to really enjoy working with people and understand that movement coaching is about bringing out the best in people."

Where did you get the idea for Movement+?

"The modeling industry has changed. The rise of street models and the fact that young newcomers now have less time to learn the acting skills needed to become a good model has created a need for movement coaching. Good movement coaching can also benefit experienced models, pushing them out of their comfort zone to explore their new potential and collaborate."

The Toronto-born dancer, 31, trained at the National Ballet School of Canada and the English National Ballet before performing with the Finnish National Ballet and Zurich Ballet. He left ballet in 2017 to focus on choreography and movement direction in fashion and has since worked with Gucci, Nike and Chanel.

Why did you decide to switch from the stage to the runway?

"I danced ballet six days a week for 10 years, and 90 percent of the time I did it the same way. As much as I respect and love ballet, the repetition is incredible. In fashion, you don't stay in the same job for too long, and the need for new ideas drives you at a pace that I find exciting."

What makes your approach to movement coaching unique?

"I have an instinctive, fast, super analytical way of looking at the movements of the human body, and I can quickly identify what movements would be outstanding within a person's control, and then tailor their movements." It has to feel real and meaningful."

What skills are essential to becoming a successful fashion movement coach?

"In addition to being able to dissect, analyze and express how the human body - from bones to smiles - moves, communication is also important. When you're trying to figure out what the client wants, you have to be able to understand what the client is thinking and effectively explain it to the model and the production team. If some ideas aren't realistic, it's essential that you have alternatives up your sleeve."

How does bringing action into fashion compare to the theatrical stage?

"Everything in this universe moves. Fashion and theater are the same thing. The narrative, the sense of illusion, the myths derived from past and present life experiences that predict the future, the fact and mystery of archaeology -- this is what makes me move and take great pleasure in exploring these fields."

Is there a fashion movement coaching program that you particularly value?

"Each project represents a unique gift, and they often take the form of a challenge. Still, working with Stefano Pilati and Random Identities was a process that left a deep mark on me physically, emotionally, mentally, and spiritually. Stefano's talent and passion have a unique energy. To be able to witness that power and to be able to have a conversation with it is incredibly inspiring and a great privilege."

What do you think has led to an increase in movement in fashion, so to speak?

"Consciousness. I believe we are at an unprecedented time in the history of this planet. As a result, the fashion world seems to be in the midst of a highly developed transition as part of the evolution that is currently unfolding. Movement coaching contributes to spatial neutralization, thereby promoting and advocating individual care, safety and well-being."

Just before The pandemic hit last year, Blakey premiered the sequel to her 2018 work The Cowpuncher; A critique of the Western genre in the form of dance, the film features costumes by Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood and music by Oscar-nominated composer Mica Levi. The 33-year-old mother is a trained modern dance dancer and counts major brands including Dior, Burberry, Gucci and the Art School among her clients.

What fashion choreography projects have you been involved in recently?

"I shot the campaign for Chopova Lowena's Spring/Summer 2021 show, shot by Charlotte Wales, alongside dancers and collaborators Nandi Bhebhe and Becky Namgauds as a group of female folk roller skaters. I also worked with director Stephen Isaac Wilson on a film for Ahluwalia, which I really enjoyed. It was a real, long look at the mind."

How do you think choreographers have become such an integral part of the fashion industry?

"In addition to making the model feel comfortable, there is another potentially richer tonality that can be obtained through choreography in image creation. I would never use the word 'movement director' to introduce myself. I'm a choreographer, and I want to communicate through movement -- narrative, idea, theme, interpretation."

What inspired you to bring action into fashion?

"Putting clothes on a moving human body immediately adds drama, character and a sense of design - and I love seeing the way this theme is presented." It's very different from theater, where you're capturing the moment of disconnection, and the goal is to amplify what that moment feels like and make the audience think more."

In 2013, the Polish dancer was cast in Alexander McQueen's show, and during a rehearsal he caught the attention of the brand's creative director Sarah Burton, who asked him to teach other models how to walk. This led the 31-year-old to embark on a new career path as a movement director and has since produced several "viral moments", such as Leon Dame's legendary crazy walk on the Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2020 runway.

Related recommendations


User Login

Register Account