5 things to watch at Paris Fashion Week


The craze for mixed-gender displays is heating up, even in Paris, the capital of flowers, where brands like Balenciaga have withdrawn from the official calendar.

But in the loss of "super brands" at the same time, Paris men's fashion week also harvested a lot of new creative talent.

While Paris is home to some of the oldest fashion houses, this season we must turn our attention to the new echelons of menswear that are on the rise.

As more designer labels choose to mix men's and women's wear, with Parisian heavyweights such as Saint Laurent and Balenciaga, a host of new talent is waiting to fill the gap in the official calendar.

Whether it's importing Berlin's grungy nightclub culture or rewriting the rigid rules of menswear design (who says boys can't wear tweed robes?) These new brands are set to shake up Paris Men's Fashion Week this season.

Vetements shocked the industry when it announced it was ditching the current fashion distribution system altogether.

"Fashion shows are not the best tools," the brand has been in the spotlight since three years ago, constantly creating hot topics around the world, and constantly holding heavy collaborations and "flash MOBS" on the international scale.

Today, the brand goes far beyond the super-sized hoodies and raincoats that first made it famous to conceptually explore the everyday clothing worn by people of all classes. The great thing about Vetements is that you never know what they're going to do next.

Beyonce returned to the spotlight last November when she posted a photo of herself with her five-month-old twin boys on Instagram, instantly creating a new classic.

She was photographed wearing a gown from a little-known Spanish designer, Alejandro Gomez Palomo, who is known for his sexiness and undercoat style and has quickly become one of the most exciting designers of the moment. He will hold his first press conference in Paris this week.

Berlin-based designers Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik founded the brand GmbH in 2016 with a collection that is influenced by youth culture and suitable for dancing, winning over editors and buyers.

The clothes are crafted from unmarketable stock fabrics (e.g., disassembled second-hand Helly Hansen jackets into PVC trousers and down jackets) and bought by top global retailers such as Ssense and Matches Fashion.

Since the death of Yohan Serfaty, founder of Y/Project, in 2013, Glenn Martens, a graduate of the Royal College of Art in Antwerp, has taken charge of the brand.

Known for his subcultural inspirations and experimental proportions, his main pieces include deconstructed jeans with detachable legs that can be worn by both men and women, and extra-long, multi-sleeved and even sleeveless jackets.

Following designers such as Christophe Lemaire and Anthony Vaccarello, Martens, who has worked for Jean-Paul Gaultier and Weekday, won the ANDAM Fashion Award in France last year.

With the brand's growing business and the career guidance of Francesca Bellettini, CEO and President of Yves Saint Laurent, Martens is taking the brand to unprecedented new levels.

Since joining in 2011, KimJones, artistic director of menswear at Louis Vuitton, has put the 164-year-old fashion house at the forefront of menswear, revitalizing the luxury brand known for its handbags.

By linking Louis Vuitton to creative partners such as Supreme and Hiroshi Fujiwara, known as the Godfather of Harajuku, Jones is pushing the brand into a more fashion-conscious, street-savvy consumer base while retaining its traditional fans.

This season, watch out for new uses for Vuittion's sportswear influenced men's ready-to-wear and iconic Louis Vuitton double-letter embodiments - such as the titanium suitcase he recently previewed on Instagram.

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