A brief history of fashion tattoos


From their humble beginnings thousands of years ago to today's ubiquitous style symbols and means of self-expression, tattoos have become integrated into a globalized culture. But why has this kind of body art intersected so little with fashion in the past?

Tattoos are by no means a modern invention. Its origins can be traced back to around 5000 BC, when Japanese clay sculptures appeared with tattoo-like decorations.

Tattoos have since been found all over the world, including the exquisite mummies of ancient Egypt; European sailors across the South Pacific collected tattoos to commemorate their arduous voyages.

Throughout history, people's attitudes toward tattoos have changed many times. Geography, socioeconomic status, and changing values determine whether a tattoo is a symbol of personality, a mark of rank, a witness to shame, or a distinctive badge of pride. Despite their long history, tattoos haven't been in mainstream fashion for long.

From hidden streets to high runways: Issey Miyake's "Tattoo" collection

For years, supermodels on the runways of London, Paris, New York and Milan were immaculate, and tattoos had no place in the fashion world - until 1971, when Issey Miyake presented his defining fall/winter "Tattoo" collection at a New York conference.

The "Tattoo" collection openly celebrates youth culture, rock 'n' roll and contemporary craft. The hand-painted dresses and men's tights are now classics, and the traditional Japanese tattoo technique is an apparent nod to Japanese tattoo culture and a new generation of music ICONS - notably Janis Joplin and Jimi Hendrix.

Many people know that Issey Miyake, who witnessed the anti-authoritarian student movement of 1968, had little interest in courting high society.

Instead, his vision was quite inclusive, using subversive imagery to break the monopoly of a few on high fashion and reach a wider audience. Tattoos were not legalized in Japan until 1948 and are still associated with a negative image of local gangsters.

Issey Miyake put unconventional interests at the center of his collection, dispelling the fashion industry's scruples and paving the way for a substantive dialogue between politics and fashion in the future.

From the fringe to the mainstream

In the late 1970s, other design giants followed in Issey Miyake's footsteps, adding tattoo-like elements to their collections.

From Martin Margiela's tattoo-like translucent tops (1989) to Jean Paul Gaultier's "Les Tatouages" (1994), In MaisonMargiela's Spring/summer 2014 couture collection from tattoo artist Sailor Jerry, tattoos are no longer a secret under the clothes, but a bold decoration on the clothes.

Seeing the fashion industry fall in love with "disruption", the more popular high street brands have also begun to carefully build their own "rebel" brand culture.

Classic examples include American brand Von Dutch's tribute to motorcycle repairman and artist Kenny Howard. In the early 2000s, French stylist Christian Audigier brought Von Dutch back from the brink of bankruptcy. Audigier kept Howard's classic style and played to the charm of biker culture: the distinctive trucker hat, the brand's distinctive faded T-shirt and the now-viral "flying eye" tattoo.

Inspired by the likes of Britney Spears, Gwen Stefani and Fred Durst, Von Dutch has become a symbol of good taste at the start of the millennium.

In 2004, Audigier left Von Dutch to join what would become a multi-million dollar international clothing giant: prolific American tattoo artist Ed Hardy's eponymous label, which dominated the streets in the 2000s with its over-the-top designs, arrows through the heart, fiery prints, and splintered letters between broken diamonds.

There is no denying that both brands are products of their time, representing a clear trend: body art has suddenly become synonymous with mass and uninhibited individuality. Tattoos are no longer a sign of criminality; On the contrary, it has been accepted by the society and has become the self-expression of the rebellious spirit.

On the cover of a magazine

While fashion has transformed tattoos into popular design elements, high street brands have promoted them as an affordable commodity for everyone; Before the 2010s, real body tattoos rarely graced the covers of fashion magazines.

Only care about once had

Tattoos have gained acceptance in much of society, and the fact that they occupy the covers of fashion magazines proves that the last taboo has been broken. Still, the vast cultural differences that persist today cannot be ignored.

In countries such as Japan, Iran, the United Arab Emirates and North Korea, people are still wary of tattoos, which have a deeper and more negative connotation. But in general, tattoos seem to have shed their "non-mainstream" reputation and have finally become a symbol of beauty and personality.

Interestingly, recent statistics show that the driving force behind tattooing is not the younger generation, but those between the ages of 30 and 49.

But, after five minutes of scrolling through Instagram, it soon becomes clear that tattoos are everywhere. How does that make sense? A theory that body art did not fade, but evolved into new forms that were not permanent.

Big beauty brands like Fenty and NYX seem to agree with this theory, offering a range of body-painted, high-chroma makeup panels in quite a variety of hues. The products have caused a stir on social media, with dozens of creatives playing with makeshift body art and sharing their painstakingly drawn results with a huge fan base.

British broadcaster and makeup artist Sophia White has gained a huge following on Twitch and Instagram for sharing her love of temporary body art.

She describes her fan base as a mix of multiple genders and identities who see body grooming as a unique way to express themselves.

Djarii knows that her followers, who grew up in the golden age of social media, feel pressured to project a perfect exterior. The unpredictable nature of influencer aesthetics may have contributed to the development of body art into non-permanent forms, as people can cope with rapidly changing trends.

"Creative body art is becoming more and more important in the makeup industry. I believe that its success is closely related to creative expression. Makeup has long been a source of power for change and self-expression, "explains Djarii," Temporary body art allows me to push creative boundaries and explore my image with the open hand." Now more and more people want to express themselves in this way."

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