She's a little pear-shaped girl


From supply shoes for the Spanish Civil War Republican Army to essential items for South French seaside vacations, Vogue takes you on a journey to explore the fascinating history of woven grass shoes

Before we became obsessed with Jane Birkin's striped T-shirt, flared jeans, wicker basket, and woven sandals, French writer and philosopher Simone de Beauvoir embarked on a famous hiking route in Marseille in the 1930s, dressed in "an old dress and woven shoes," pursuing intellectual enlightenment.

Around the same period, Coco Chanel used navy woven shoes paired with several pearl necklaces and sailor hats to create a beach look, adding new ideas to elegant seaside fashion. At the same time, in Figueres, Spain, surrealist painter Salvador Dal í's hemp rope shoes purchased from a local shop have also become part of his signature design.

Nowadays, from the coast to the city, from Coco to Karl (Lagerfeld brought this shoe style back to Chanel's spring/summer runway in 2013), durable woven shoes have traveled thousands of miles. This type of civilian shoe has now developed various high-end interpretations, adorned with Swarovski crystals, YSL or double-C logos, thick sole style or embroidered with carvings. Its most recent redesign comes from Rihanna's Fenty Puma collection, which includes rope bottom slippers in "Sulphur Spring" yellow and "Drizzle Bay" gray.

The English name Espadrillles originates from the Catalan word Espardenya, used to describe canvas shoes with woven rope soles and vertical stitching, used by farmers in the Pyrenees region of Spain in the 14th century.

Casta ñ er, a Catalan grass rope shoe family business founded in 1927, was commissioned to produce shoes for the Republican Army during the Spanish Civil War. They also produced high-end grass woven shoes for Lanvin, Herm è s, and Christian Louboutin, and in the early 1970s, they also produced Yves Saint Laurent's famous wedge cut grass woven shoes.

By the 1940s, this style had appeared on several Vogue covers and the trend had spread to Hollywood.

Lauren Bacall repeatedly wore straw woven shoes with straps in the 1948 film noir "Key Largo" co starring with Humphrey Bogart, similar to the broadband version she paired with silk polka dot shorts in "The Big Sleep" (1946).

Ten years later, Grace Kelly wore coral colored grass rope shoes in "High Society" (1956) and simple black shoes paired with a shirt and shorts in Alfred Hitchcock's "To Catch a Thief" (1955).

In the 1960s, Jeanne Moreau rode a bicycle wearing a striped Breton top and straw shoes in Fran ç ois Truffaut's "Juleset Jim" (1962), while Romy Schneider used it as a poolside outfit in "La Piscine" (1969).

Subsequently, Yves Saint Laurent elevated this trend to a new height of two inches. He collaborated with the Casta ñ er family, whom he met at a trade show in 1970, to create the first pair of wedge-shaped grass woven shoes, a pair of finely woven shoes with gold ribbons and stitching paired with hemp rope loops.

This now fashionable wedge shape became a classic due to Diane Keaton's 1972 film "Play It Again, Sam", in which she wore denim rope soled wedge shoes, paired with gray knee high socks and denim shorts.

Bianca Jagger also boarded this natural heel train in the 1970s, further elevating their fashion status. In the late 1980s, Casta ñ er created black leather woven shoes that reached up to the thighs for Jean Paul Gaultier.

From this point on, woven grass shoes have become a must-have fashion item. Valentino launched a flat bottomed and glamorous version made of black leather and lace at the 2012 Spring/Summer Show; Then, the brand's signature rivets were used.

Chanel joined the hemp rope battle in the spring and summer of 2013, launching a new series of pink and colored woven shoes.

This trend continues to spread on the runway. Last year, Giambattista Valli launched the "Cocktail Straw Shoes" - soft leather flat shoes with black ribbons tied around the ankles, paired with a haute couture collection consisting of Duchess silk short dresses and floor length evening gowns.

From Audrey Hepburn's red striped top and boyish flat shoes in the 1950s to Amal Clooney's super high wedge shoes today, the evergreen tree of the footwear industry is an timeless trend favorite.

Chanel also launched the Coco Beach collection in the summer, which includes grass woven shoes inspired by Coco's favorite beach resorts.

This workwear inspired style seems to have no signs of becoming outdated.

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