In a blink of an eye, Jonathan Anderson also welcomed his tenth year at Loewe. In 10 years, he has transformed the Spanish brand, known for its aggressive leather craftsmanship, into a cultural icon that lives with The Times. Especially in the post-pandemic era, Anderson has always been looking for innovations in everyday clothing, and the creative gimmicks have never been more approachable.

This season, he chose to capture the unnoticed moments in the making and wearing process, such as the enlarged pins around the model's waist and chest, and the super-high-waisted pants, which are the opposite of the current millennial style of low-rise pants. How can you twist some features and make it deja vu and yet have a subversive feel to it.

"Says Anderson. Obviously, the pieces in these shows that have been enlarged and compressed to the extreme are the perfect material to ignite social media discussion, helping Loewe to create a continuously updated media spectacle, and commercial success will naturally follow.

Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 collection

Under a stage set draped in red velvet, Demna introduces us to his closest circle of friends. The opening model is Demna's mother Ella, the closing model is his partner, the musician BFRND, which also includes his friends and colleagues, all faces have some degree of emotional resonance with them, different from the standardized definition of models, they also represent the interweaving of diverse cultures on the show. Accompanied by Isabelle Huppert's live recitation of the sound effects - how to make a men's suit jacket.

Taking interweaving as a clue, Demna also focuses on the transformation of retro clothing in the design, deconstructing and reorganizing the existing clothing. For example, the opening style is disassembled and assembled with 3 trench coats, and the closing style is a dress made of 7 wedding dresses from the last century after cutting, layering and stacking. While retaining the original features, Demna also makes a series of dresses. The collision between the old and the new, the collision between the classical and the modern is impressive. There is no doubt that after the storm, Demna would like to return to his original heart of making clothes, abandon the suspension of gimmicks, and conquer the fashion industry with emotions, and his efforts are obvious to all.

Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2024 collection

At the same time as the success of the millennial trend, the nostalgic trend of the 1990s is also popular, and the reason for this is that the unrestrained display in the show is naturally one of the important factors.

In that era of relative freedom and not strictly controlled by business, every prominent brand has its own distinctive style and tone, and is therefore respected and worshipped.

Since Casey Cadwallader took over, Mugler has worked hard to bring back the brand's glamour from that period. In this season's show, Cadwallader has taken another solid step forward.

Full of blowers and several meters of tapered tulle provided the source of the show's aura. Cadwallader, like Mr. Mugler, also found inspiration in nature, but he focused on the water, turning the models into enchanting jellyfish, with fine sequins and laser-cut parts to create a dreamlike sexy effect. With Mariacarla Boscono, Helena Christensen, Natasha Poly and other veteran supermodels returning, the once-powerful Mugler seems to be back.

Mugler Spring/Summer 2024 Collection

Also announced the return of Marni, after a long absence from the fashion week schedule for nearly a year, the return of creative director Francesco Risso presented a balance of creativity and practical full marks.

Needless to say, the preppy knit tops, trousers and miniskirts were infused with a youthful vibe by Marni.

The most striking is the series of "flower dresses" in the show, which are finely crafted by hand. Hundreds of plant yearbooks are printed and cut with flower patterns one by one, and then sewn onto dresses and corsets. Some details are also used to shape discarded tin cans, which is still the familiar DIY taste of Risso, but it is easier for people to understand and digest. He calls it "the virtuosity of the hands, competing with the ubiquity of virtual technology."

Indeed, Risso has refreshed people's understanding of "heavy industry" through these novel techniques, and also erased the heavy historical burdens and shackles of craftsmanship.

Marni 2024 Spring/Summer Collection

"Reinstallation" has a double meaning for Rabanne, on the one hand, the series of shapes made of metal is really obvious in weight, and on the other hand, this season is the first collection of the brand to reappear under the Rabanne name.

Creative Director Julien Dossena has fully unleashed his imagination of the brand archive, and you can see these looks on the show as the Amazon warrior, the Queen of the stars and the classical goddess, giving the most powerful echo of the Paco Rabanne tradition.

As we all know, Dossena is perfectly capable of striking a balance between business and creativity, and this season's idealized design may be to create a more solid brand image for the brand's new beauty line and upcoming fast fashion collaboration.

But even without these additional factors, we are still eager to appreciate the loyal and pure creative expression of Julien Dossena, after all, in the current trend of conservatism, no one can resist the emergence of more amazing moments on the show.