Fashion houses and creative directors go on and off all the time, but we probably didn't expect Sarah Burton to wrap up her Alexander McQueen project this season. Burton has been the brand's creative director for 13 years and has been with the brand for 26 years.
Burton had been McQueen's right-hand man when he was alive, and when he died, it was clear that no one could have done the job better than Burton.
Now, the diligent Burton has also come to the moment of departure from the brand, she tries her best to pay tribute to all the words that want to express into the excellent brand technology, "this series of inspiration from the female body structure, Elizabeth I, blood red rose and Magdalena Abakanowicz, A creative artist who defied the rules and refused to compromise.
This show is dedicated to Lee Alexander McQueen, who has long wanted to empower women, and to my team for their passion, talent and loyalty." To this end, Burton also recreated The blade cutting element in McQueen's 1996 spring/Summer The Hunger series, but decorated the knife edge with a circle of gorgeous gold embroidery, transforming the wound into a sacred glory, expressing praise for the female body, and silently blessing the bright future of the brand.
Alexander McQueen
2024 Spring/Summer Collection
Following the acclaimed Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Anthony Vaccarello continues the "one piece makes a collection" approach and is more straightforward, "I almost don't want to do anything, I see too much stuff, too much embroidery, too many decorative elements, I wanted to remove all that and do what was necessary to start a new chapter for Saint Laurent with a clean canvas."
This time, he chose to look at the Saharienne jacket launched by Yves Saint Laurent in 1967, based on the color and material changes, but at the same time stay true to the original intention of the design - to give women the power of freedom and liberation.
On a single cotton and linen material, olive, maroon, sand, chalk and other monochrome shapes throughout the show.
When it comes to accessories, bold metal earrings and bracelets still stand out, while leather caps inspired by the identity of legendary aviators Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bolland, aviator sunglasses and leather gloves reinforce a sense of neutrality and power. Make the spirit of Mr. Yves Saint Laurent active in the current fashion system.
Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
2024 Spring/Summer Collection
There are those who continue the success of previous seasons, and those who choose to boldly change their existing style, and Matthew M. Williams, creative director of Givenchy, is one of the latter.
Not long ago, Givenchy and Tiffany & Co. had a dreamy interaction at a jewelry event, which once again recalled the era when Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn formed an elegant classic side by side.
This may be Williams's "backtracking" signal to the outside world. For the spring/Summer 2024 show, his signature functional styles and accessories were replaced by soft and gentle fabrics and classical silhouettes. With the help of stylist Carine Roitfeld, the models looked like actors from a 1960s movie. But the pearls and crisp cuts seem to remind us that this is not a copy of Hubert de Givenchy, and Williams is trying to find a new way to live with the brand.
Givenchy Spring/Summer 2024 collection
From the New York Fashion Week gong in early September, to London, Milan, until the Paris show, the most discussed keyword in the crowd is the word "real wear". This may reflect a more down-to-earth, rational expectation in the current environment, but even so, many designers hope to bring a little fresh interest to everyday looks.
Valentino, which has always been known for its gorgeous dresses, is quietly making a change. This season, Pierpaolo Piccioli hopes to return the freedom of dress to women. "We must maintain the freedom of women to express themselves, to express their bodies in a very free way."
The concrete practice is reflected in the transformation of the basic style, from the wide white T-shirt and jeans to the comfortable mini skirt, the flower pattern under the close examination is made by the three-dimensional cutting of the fabric, "I don't want to use embroidery as a decoration, but as a structure, it becomes a fabric in itself."
The female body looms over the unique structure of the fashion, "Beauty and elegance are what Valentino's work represents.
I think we can keep that, but also show the body in a different, modern way, without being sexy for someone else's sake." Piccioli certainly did.
Valentino Spring/Summer 2024 collection
As the final show of this season's Paris Fashion Week, Miu Miu has been very popular for several seasons. In this turbulent and unpredictable fashion season, it is fitting to end Paris with Miuccia Prada's critical perspective.
As expected, Miuccia's passion for eccentric intellectual image once again surprised us, "embrace unique personality, enjoy the joy of life" is Miu Miu wrote for this season's show note. The models are like strange students in a hurry, random hairstyles, slightly dull retro optical frames, a variety of seemingly irregular but extremely comfortable in color, a handbag with an overflow in the hand, and colorful band-Aids attached to the feet, all seem to restore the more fashionable us in life. The brand's iconic logo polo shirt, short suit jacket, and low-rise miniskirt are not absent, continuing to lead the definition of fashion in the next spring.
