From September 21 to September 27, a total of 65 brands participated in this Spring/Summer 2022 Milan Fashion Week, of which 42 were offline physical shows and 23 were online releases. Both Gucci, owned by Kering Group, and Valentino, based in Rome, are off the official Milan Fashion Week schedule. But MM6 Maison Margiela, Luisa Spagnoli, Hui, Vitelli, Joy Meribe and Maison Alvine Demanou made their debuts at Milan Fashion Week, Moncler, Boss and Roberto Cavalli, led by creative director Fausto Puglisi, are back on the official Milan Fashion Week schedule.
In fact, not only Milan, but also the global fashion industry represented by New York, London, Paris, and many fashion week publishing platforms in China has ushered in after a huge test, which is not only the recovery of the industrial chain based on maintaining stability, or the new normal publishing mode of online and offline linkage. A series of fashion week innovations such as dual-city or multi-city linkage releases and role swaps of different creative directors are breaking many barriers in the traditional fashion industry.
In March this year, Hermes has presented three simultaneous shows in Paris, Shanghai and New York, weakening the brand invisible boundary brought by the city-prefix fashion week site, and many brands have increased more countries and cities in the past two years; In April, Gucci and Balenciaga jointly created and released "Aria- Fashion Aria", breaking the creative and commercial boundaries of different brands.
Prada2022 Spring/Summer Women's show Prada2022 Spring/Summer women's showHowever, the "dual entity" fashion show presented in real time in Milan and Shanghai in the current Milan Fashion Week schedule, and the fifth collaboration jointly completed by co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, is undoubtedly pushing the new model of a few months ago to a more mature stage. The Prada Spring/Summer 2022 women's collection is presented in Deposito, the Fondazione Prada Milan venue, and the Shanghai Bund 1 Twin City simultaneously. Through the screen, under the scene of the show, the real-time dialogue is opened, and the guests from both ends of the earth are brought together in the same contemporary community through this form.
Raf Simons said: "Two simultaneous shows show a new possibility: Prada fashion shows can be held anywhere. It's not just sharing images, it's not just sharing through technology, it's sharing tangible activities. The concept of community is crucial: it brings together people who share a common ideology, values and beliefs."
In the new series, the two co-creative directors are exploring how the long-term use of sexy, glamorous and so on in the fashion world in the past, or the almost fixed contors such as skirts, corsets and evening gowns can be reduced to the core by subtraction, and the imagination is left to the wearer's own interpretation.
Prada2022 Spring/Summer Women's show Prada2022 Spring/Summer women's show
The fish bones in the corset straps and pestles that were the traditional structure of European women's dress more than a hundred years ago have been cleverly hidden in the 21st century dress system, replacing the waist and body connection structure of modern clothing, rather than the common metaphor of shorter or more transparent when referring to sexual glamour in the past. The evening dress was cut off above the knee and the back piece extended to the ground, which Raf Simons thought was very modern.
The naked female skin after the back buttons are unbuttoned and naturally scattered, and the looming leather belts and pants find a more essential and free way to deal with the key words of sexy glamour or nudity.
Prada2022 Spring/Summer Women's show Prada2022 Spring/Summer women's show
In addition, the release of the new series under the role swap of the creative director of Fendi and Versace at Milan Fashion Week has also become a "hot topic" after years of joint cooperation, making the boundaries between luxury groups in the fashion industry completely blurred, which is different from any joint capsule series in the past. It is also different from what Alessandro Michele and Demna Gvasalia showed on the runway. For the first time, Silvia Venturini Fendi and Donatella Versace have placed individuals outside their respective family businesses, instead drawing inspiration from each other's brand histories.
Fendi and Versace exchange creative directors to release a new collection Fendi and Versace Exchange creative directors to release a new collection
In the "Fendace" role reversal, Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi are responsible for the women's and men's design of Versace By Fendi, respectively. Donatella Versace is responsible for the design of Fendi By Versace.
Versace By Fendi was inspired primarily by Versace's work in the mid to late nineties, most notably by combining Fendi Monogram with Versace's Greek loops. It is worth mentioning that many of the works here are two-sided designs, such as chain mail leather pieces and other crafts from Fendi and Logo dark grain are hidden.
The new Versace By Fendi collection
Commenting on the collaboration, Kim Jones, creative director of women's wear at Fendi, told WWD: "I've always looked up to Donatella and Versace was a big part of the culture I grew up with. And this collaboration is also a cultural phenomenon, fashion becomes culture, and it will last a long time, which is interesting."
Fendi By Versace. Fendi By Versace
Fendi By Versace took a more rock-punk approach, with Donatella Versace using disassembling and reassembling as key design elements. In her designs, metal pins from Versace appear repeatedly and Pierce the Fendi logo and symbols. In it, the chain is combined with lace and the letter F inlaid with crystal. In addition, she used silk folds to mimic denim and cut the wool leather material to make Fendi's world more youthful and rebellious.
In the past, it was not uncommon for fashion shows to be transformed into more flexible cultural arenas. As mentioned by Kim Jones above, "fashion is regarded as culture", and as early as the late 1990s, the phenomenon of strengthening the linkage between art and fashion has developed to an important milestone, promoting the creation of performing arts on the fashion show stage. Over time, fashion shows have become an increasingly wide-ranging event, ranging from the performing arts to theatre and pop culture.
