Paris Fashion Week is a little different this season


Paris Fashion Week has rewritten the definition of "week."

As the longest and richest of the four fashion weeks, Paris Fashion Week brings together hundreds of international brands each season, and the intense schedule often makes it far beyond the number of days of the week.

The just-concluded Spring/Summer 2024 Paris Fashion Week lasted for nine days, and every day saw the debut of major brands.

Every fashion practitioner and lover will not miss Paris Fashion Week, but different people have different preferences and definitions for it.

Some are looking forward to what classic designs the century-old fashion house will awaken in the new season, some are hoping to see what faces young designers will emerge, and of course, some are focused on taking trend inspiration from the new collections of major brands, leaving plenty of room for spring and summer wardrobes.

When it comes to Paris Fashion Week, the first thing to pay attention to are the "iconic" brands that symbolize the fashion and luxury culture of Paris, they are the backbone of the fashion capital, and their every move also affects the development of global fashion and fashion trends.

As fashion watchers from all over the world walk through the shows of major brands, a refurbished building at 103 Champs-Elysees in Paris attracts almost all eyes, and the construction scaffolding is decorated in the classic hard box shape of Louis Vuitton, suggesting its new owner.

Louis Vuitton's spring/Summer 2024 women's collection was also held here.

Inside, the show's orange setting, created by art director James Chinlund, was more vibrant than the brand packaging, and a series of light jackets and striped gauzy dresses set the tone for the show. "Louis Vuitton is a luxury brand, but it is about function, providing a service that makes travel better."

So says Ghesquiere, who insists on putting practicality first, even when he uses the highest level of bespoke craftsmanship, just as what looks like a tweed jacket from a distance is actually woven from a three-dimensional cut of leather, a sleek, satin-like dress dress that shines through from carefully embroidered pieces, And so on throughout the room.

In a flash, Nicolas Ghesquiere has been in charge of Louis Vuitton for ten years, and when the new collection he created is officially launched, everyone is more convinced that a new chapter has arrived that is lighter, lively, everyday, and more emphasis on the brand's superior craftsmanship.

"The Spring/Summer 2024 collection is a tribute to freedom and ingenuity, telling a story from the garden of Villa Noaye," Chanel creative director Virginie Viard this season looks beyond Paris to the French style, located in the Hyeres mountains, designed by architect Robert Mallet-Stevens for exactly 100 years, Charles and Marie-Lore de Noaye couple's modernist villa, Inspired her to start a new season.

The show was cut into a relatively independent unit by the stereo scenery, echoing the spatial changes of the villa, and the new color matching from the architectural design to transform the twill soft cloth, geometric patterns outline the structural sense of the shape, the asymmetric combination interprets the aesthetic of freedom, a pleasant spring picture immediately emerged in front of our eyes, "delicate and leisurely," Throughout the collection, tweed, tracksuit and lace: I tried to bring together two very opposite styles in the coolest way possible. The unique ambience of Villa Noaye's garden and pool is perfect for the occasion." Viard explains.

Hermes womenswear artistic director Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski also chose to take a different approach, outside the definition of quiet luxury, inviting the ladies of the Hermes world to a casual suburban outing.

Vanhee-Cybulski extracted rich colors such as wine red, elephant grey, cream white and carminated red from the brand's leather goods design, and gave them holiday attributes. A large number of modular knitted items are convenient to wear and remove and adjust their shapes to adapt to the changeable natural environment outdoors, while classic leather coats and dresses are also interpreted in a more comfortable wrapping way. At the same time, exquisite laser cutout and precise tailoring techniques are integrated to meet the needs of summer clothing.

In the outside world, Vanhee-Cybulski has steadily grasped the pulse of the trend since the beginning of the last season, from old money to Maillard, her Hermes is undoubtedly the leader in participating in the definition of fashion.

But for her, these so-called "trends" have never influenced her creative starting point as the artistic director of a century-old French brand, that is, always adhere to the standards of the highest level of products, to create masterpieces that can withstand the scrutiny of The Times.

Fashion houses and creative directors go on and off all the time, but we probably didn't expect Sarah Burton to wrap up her Alexander McQueen project this season.

Burton has been the brand's creative director for 13 years and has been with the brand for 26 years.

Burton had been McQueen's right-hand man when he was alive, and when he died, it was clear that no one could have done the job better than Burton.

Now, the diligent Burton has also come to the moment of departure from the brand, she tries her best to pay tribute to all the words that want to express into the excellent brand technology, "this series of inspiration from the female body structure, Elizabeth I, blood red rose and Magdalena Abakanowicz, A creative artist who defied the rules and refused to compromise.

This show is dedicated to Lee Alexander McQueen, who has long wanted to empower women, and to my team for their passion, talent and loyalty."

To this end, Burton also recreated The blade cutting element in McQueen's 1996 spring/Summer The Hunger series, but decorated the knife edge with a circle of gorgeous gold embroidery, transforming the wound into a sacred glory, expressing praise for the female body, and silently blessing the bright future of the brand.

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