Writing ancient myths in haute couture


Last night, Dior released the Autumn/Winter 2023 haute couture collection at the Rodin Gallery in Paris, bringing us a new season of fashion shows in this familiar building, a feast of high order aesthetics and extreme craftsmanship.

Before the start of each season Dior show, we can get three videos on the brand's Instagram about the elements and inspiration of the season.

This time, the camera focuses on the artisans in the Dior workshop, learning about their favorite myths.

Athena, Medusa, Demeter or Penelope, the feminist glow of mythological female characters, and the dress image of mythological women are the inspiration for the design and craftsmanship of this autumn/Winter 2023 haute couture collection.

Before the show, Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Dior women's wear, posted on her personal Instagram account the wonderful book "Nonostante Platone" on her reading list this season.

The author of the book, Italian philosophical artist Adriana Cavarero, explores mythology and ancient philosophy from the subjective perspective of women, unearthing a strong and powerful force.

In the pre-show preview of this season, she interprets the unity and independence of women through the questioning of his identity by his wife Penelope after Odysseus returns home in Homer, and her behavior of weaving works during the day and tearing them down at night while waiting for her husband to return home for 20 years.

Every season, Maria also works with different female artists to create the atmosphere of the show. This time, for Dior's Autumn/Winter 2023 haute Couture series, she recruited female artist Marta Roberti to focus on exploring the content of ethnic minorities in Western culture, and to renew the images of women, animals, primitive ethnic groups and imported products. Bringing the old elements back into the spotlight.

I have studied many images of goddesses and found that they are often associated with animals.

I try to imitate their gestures, at first through acting, using my body to imitate their gestures and movements, to make them unique, until it becomes a part of me.

With her original brushstrokes, she placed the whole show into the deep jungle where nature and women co-exist, meet, and heaven and man are united, establishing a new world that belongs to Dior women only like an art gallery.

The female spiritual world born in these early creation stories coincides with the feminism that Maria Grazia Chiuri has been expressing throughout fashion design. She draws inspiration from these philosophical ideas, artistic practices and expressions. Thus was born the combination of classical mythological poetry and modern temperament of the season Dior Autumn/Winter 2023 haute couture series.

"Those who have passed away are still present in our lives, as the gift we were born with, as the burden of fate, as the blood that flows, and as the gesture that rises from the depths of time."

As Rilke's poem said, Dior haute couture follows the time construction of this self-contained system, she has her own unique development rhythm, and reflects the ingenuity and excellent quality of Dior workshop in the process of presentation, continuing the core spirit of the brand.

She skillfully combines the seemingly unrelated past with the present, overlapping the past with the present at the intersection of the world of memory and imagination with exquisite craftsmanship.

This season, Maria Grazia Chiuri draws from the philosophy of mythology, and uses the fine elements of her classic style, such as tunic, decorative skirt, cape and cape, to continue the brand's focus on the perfect silhouette of the aesthetic tone of the version, and gives full play to the interpretation of the beauty of clothing, creating a model under the feminist myth of the season.

The model walked from the show like a saint, solemn, noble and elegant.

Smooth lines of clothing with flat shoes, with beige white, white, light gold, silver and other colors built to restore a once brilliant mythological era.

These low-key colors are romantic and quiet, maintain Dior's consistent soft temperament, and bloom the beauty of design in a simple place.

These light-colored clothes are like pieces of parchment rolls that transcribed myths and legends, and the fine embroidery is a great epic written during the period.

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