Every year in January and July, CHANEL haute Couture uniform, which stands at the top of the pyramid of the fashion industry, releases its latest series as agreed, launching new challenges to craftsmanship, design concepts and dress scenes, and also subverting our understanding of clothing.

Ending the release of successive seasons in the temporary palace of the Grand Palais in Paris, CHANEL 2023 Autumn and winter Haute couture series will be selected in the long history and symbol of the French life of the Seine River, in the first release of the trailer video, Photographer Karim Sadli turns his lens on actress, musician and brand ambassador Vanessa Paradis, who is wearing the latest season couture dress as she strolling along the river. Her elegant and charming air blends with the mysterious and enchanting scene of Paris at midnight.

From midnight to early morning, Paradis interprets the casual, light, and free characteristics, and also continues to the fall/Winter 2023 haute Couture series conference site.

What is different from the past is that CHANEL creative director Virginie Viard chose to pack light, abandon the complex show installation and display, the stone steps of the river is for the models to show the new runway, full of years of mottled texture of brick, is painted on bright pastel blocks, different shades, light and dark color combinations, From a distance, it looks like the classic twill soft texture of the brand, which also seems to indicate that the high-level uniform is about to "land" and enter the daily life.

"This collection puts you in Paris. The event was back in Paris itself, on a pier. The streets and colorful cobblestones are sophisticated and simple."

It was fitting that Caroline de Maigret, the model and musician who serves as CHANEL's brand ambassador and is no doubt an icon of French style, opened the show.

The black tweed made a neutral cut overcoat that extended to the ankle, and the bejeweled double-breasted buttons were the finishing touch, while Caroline's relaxed interpretation made the look look very light, which is unique to Parisian women.

Even with a regular black suit, she can also present a richer choice for fashion lovers through the combination of material, cut and decoration.

The black sequined tweed suit has a wonderful chemistry with the clear tulle top, showing a soft atmosphere in the strong, while the exquisite tank top is a combination of multiple fabrics.

The models who streamed out of the show, often carrying wicker baskets filled with delicate flowers, laid another clue for Viard's design inspiration.

Eyelet flanged over a black set for a detailed handmade flower bud to bloom.

At the same time, the life of more French women has been fully restored, with a set of bright clothes, casually walking the dog; Or under the night to enjoy the stars in the sky, the dim light of the stars and the bright moon poured on the clothes, the French style spread from inside to outside.There is no doubt that Virginie Viard likes to start with classic models, but is not comfortable with the status quo.

Parisian women's dress and attitude to life have long been a global fashion, but Viard wanted to go a step further in his creation, finding images and textures in the artistic style that could be used for haute couture.

The brush strokes left by the brush brush of the watercolor pen are reproduced in the colorful woven tweed fabric, and the addition of iridescent reflective fabrics and psychedelic sequin embroidery gives the unpredictable artistic charm of haute couture.

In contrast to the flower basket held by the model in the show, the element of the fruit basket cherished by the painting art has changed from the object depicted in the oil painting to the object of the handicraft workshop to strive for realistic restoration.

To this end, the skilled artisans use a variety of materials, from stained glass beads to simulate the translucent luster of fruit, overlapping metallic glitter embroidery to capture the relationship between light and shadow in the painting effect, or gradual pastel sequins to interpret the subtle transitions of color under the artist's pen, and perform a wonderful camouflage in the haute livery.

Viard is also interested in sculpture, and the carved beams and painted buildings on the historic Bridges over the Seine River are the best inspiration. Sculptural quality is evident in the two designs, which are presented in gold and white respectively.

The gold soft shell fabric is embossed with the flower texture, which shines in the morning sun; And at the bottom of the white halter dress, the texture like plaster explosion cracks impact people's inherent impression of high-end uniform bright, exquisite and watertight.

Like the development of art, the innovation of haute couture must also walk on the road of breakthrough and subversion.

In our traditional image of haute couture, exquisite craftsmanship often means unimaginable weight of pieces, once-in-a-lifetime wearing occasions and uniform armor.But Viard is clearly looking to break those constraints and frameworks this season.

Lightweight chiffon and tulle are no longer the base of heavy industry decoration, they can also stand alone under the clever combination.With the twill soft cloth to create different levels of soft rhythm.

Of course, CHANEL has always been proud of the three-dimensional flower decoration is not absent, and there is a trend of being pushed to the extreme.Viard released her ability to use flowers to metaphor people, or abstract, or realistic, or the combination of flowers in turn, it is dizzying.

Crisscrossing with tweed Outlines a flowerbed landscape, interspersed with three-dimensional flowers made of feathers and tulle, a vivid garden of interest is in sight.

Viard's wisdom lies in the fact that no matter which method of decorating flowers is mentioned above, she does not use cumbersome and exaggerated silhouette, cleverly neutralizing the complexity between the whole and the details, so that the senior uniform can open up more possibilities for wearing occasions and ways.

At the end of the show, as one evening gown after another appeared, Viard continued to carry the concept of "lifting the weight of light" throughout the design, and Vanessa Paradis in the pre-show preview of the style is partly derived from this.The long bare-shoulded black organza dress with black velvet camellias had clean lines that hid rich details in black.

Two-tone wool crepe dress, elegant cut and texture enough to cope with many occasions in daily life; The see-through black yarn integrates the skeleton of the current corset and introduces the trend attribute to haute couture.Long, flowing black chiffon and black organza dress with silhouette and lightness.

Even the closed bridal dress has entered the most pure and concise design direction, as Viard said: "playing with contrast and contrast, exquisite simplicity and elegance, just like grasping the balance between just and soft, at CHANEL, this is what we call charm."

In other words, when the senior uniform is facing a wider and more diverse audience, it must not be limited to the extreme demands of the process, to convey emotions with the process, to enrich the experience of life with emotions, Virginie Viard gave his own interpretation - "to convey emotions, to integrate the elements that cannot be together, to do it in his own way." Dream it up."