Spring/Summer New York Fashion Week has succeeded in counterattacking


When talking about minimalism at New York Fashion Week, of course, Peter Do is a must.

The brand has not been established for a long time, but it has encountered three years of the most turbulent social environment, but this did not crush his fighting spirit, but this season launched 60 sets including his first men's collection, implementing the past smooth and crisp tailoring, Peter Do also in the suit jacket and trousers into the deconstruction element.

Of course, if you are attracted to the opening piece by NCT member Jeno's hollowed-out back coat, you can also feel confident to try it, as Peter said: "80% of the men's and women's clothing collection is genderless." So now we're moving to small, medium and large instead of 34 and 36."

Under the continuous influence of the epidemic, we have gradually begun to re-examine how we should get along with time. Handicraft, which seems to be against time, but embodies countless efforts in every minute and second, reignites people's enthusiasm at present.

The trend was evident on the runway at New York Fashion Week this season.

Marni creative director Francesco Risso is already recognized as a new generation of brat in the fashion world, but coming to New York to launch his new season, he is more down-to-earth: Inspired by the ever-changing sun rays in the Italian countryside, the delicate colors and textures are presented with exquisite craftsmanship, whether it is the delicate feel of the patchwork leather coat or the layers of the hollow-knit, which show the essence of the Italian clothing tradition to the city of New York.

Local Gabriela Hearst is not weak either, her beloved knitting and crocheting skills continue to shine, while gold leather upholstery is soft to the touch but visually imbues the women with indestructible energy, while gold thread embroidery adds a delicate texture to the suit, and a swirling holiday print is also done with three-dimensional weaving. Dreamy and blurred.

On the occasion of Proenza Schouler's 20th anniversary, designer duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez also chose to celebrate the brand with visible craftsmanship.

Ethnic mesh knitwear and tassels from Hernandez's native Cuba are the focus of this season's decor, while they collaborate with the local Bolivian weavers community and invite them to spend six months producing the four weavers on the show, in order to introduce traditional local crafts to as many people as possible.

Private Policy's designer duo Li Haoran and Qu Siying have been living in Shanghai and New York respectively after the epidemic and are responsible for the daily operation of the brand. This season, they are inspired by Noah's Ark and show the purest "love and peace" in the brand's iconic design, decorated with peace dove prints in the diamond check pattern. We've definitely grown a lot and we prefer simple, effortless pieces and want to encourage everyone with the looks on the show so that everyone can feel confident wearing a strappy tank top next summer." Qu said.

Another highlight of the show was the closing wedding dress, made of recycled polyester satin and paired with a simple and light veil, to bring the beautiful imagination of love and peace to reality.

CPLUS SERIES 2023 spring/summer series is released on the CFDA Runway360 platform, which is also the tenth season of the brand since its establishment.

Continuing the designer Liu Junting's precise control of different layers of fabrics, different elements such as printing, denim, velvet, sequins, and knitting are freely combined in fashion, showing a variety of modeling experiences such as science fiction, retro, and drama.

In addition, CPLUS SERIES x Levis denim capsule series has also become a bright spot worth looking forward to in the 2023 spring/summer series, through a series of processing such as dyeing, aging, profile reconstruction, so that the traditional tannin clothing has a new look, quite experimental and pioneer.

"I'm really inspired by the people in the Lower East Side, SoHo and Chinatown communities. I'm in the store a lot and I'm always able to talk to customers and get feedback from them." It was the first physical show for Gao's namesake brand, Snow Xue Gao, since the outbreak.

Away from a series of flashy concepts, this new collection is entirely for the brand's loyal fans, "This season we focus on people who we find interesting." We invited a lot of customers who bought the clothes and they really just loved the brand and the aesthetic."

The vivid printed fabric and deconstructed patchwork style give her design a high degree of recognition.

Although she has chosen to keep things simple for the new season, Gao is not content to limit her fashion to a certain audience, and her designs speak for what is happening in the store: "Young girls will come and buy crop tops, and their mothers will buy dresses."

Off the runway, LUCHEN, a new brand founded by Chinese designer Lu Chen last year, is taking its new collection to the streets.

In these structured shapes, the virtual reference line is combined with the real volume of the clothing, forming a wonderful experience with the continuous crowd on the street, and completing the question to the inner and outer world: how will technology overlap with fashion?

How will the human form survive the digital revolution?

I believe that the viewers walking in the street in a hurry to catch up with the show will take the questions thrown by LUCHEN and think about their own answers along the way.

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