Do you know how to spot "greenwashing"? What's the difference between compostable and biodegradable? What exactly are microplastics? Here are some eco-words commonly used by fashion brands to help you make smart choices when shopping.
You may be trying to be as environmentally friendly as possible when you shop for clothes, but the endless stream of new buzzwords and scientific jargon related to sustainable fashion can be a bit overwhelming. But what do these terms actually mean? Why are they important?
As a consumer, having relevant knowledge can help you avoid the pitfalls of greenwashing and determine whether the brand you choose is taking environmentally friendly measures to save the planet and for the benefit of garment workers.
Fortunately, there are now plenty of resources available, such as the Sustainable Fashion glossary compiled by Conde Nast in collaboration with the Centre for Sustainable Fashion (CSF) at the London College of Fashion. "It is vital that we identify and understand the fashion language that is relevant to The Times and related to environmental, cultural and health crises." Professor Dilys Williams, director of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, told Vogue. "The clothes we wear should reflect what we stand for, and this glossary can help us judge what constitutes great fashion."
Want to know what transparency really means, or the difference between biodegradable and compostable? Don't worry. We've got you covered. Earth Day (April 22) is here, let's learn the keywords of sustainable fashion.
- Carbon offsets
The fashion industry must urgently reduce its CO2 emissions. The fashion industry accounts for 4 to 10 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions each year. That's why more and more brands are turning to carbon offsets: investing in projects that focus on reducing emissions, such as forest restoration and rebuilding. However, carbon offsetting, often in developing countries, is by no means a perfect solution, and companies should not lose sight of the real problem, which is dealing directly with their own carbon footprint.
- Microplastics
Microplastics refer to tiny plastic particles that are increasingly polluting the planet, and synthetic clothing is one of the main culprits. It is estimated that up to 20% to 35% of the microplastics released into the ocean actually come from textiles, and the survival of Marine life is greatly threatened by ingesting these microplastics. Fortunately, we can help improve this problem with everyday actions, such as avoiding synthetic materials whenever possible and using microplastic filters when washing clothes, such as Guppyfriend laundry bags or Cora Ball laundry balls.
- Natural fibers
Natural fibers, i.e., plant or animal fibers such as cotton, flax and wool, are generally considered more sustainable than synthetic fibers (derived from fossil fuels). But natural fibers can still have varying degrees of impact on the environment, such as organic cotton is less harmful to the environment than conventional cotton, and leather can leave a larger carbon footprint than materials such as polyester. While natural fibers themselves are biodegradable, the chemicals used to treat natural fibers in the production process may not be (see below).
- Biodegradable materials
You may have noticed an increasing number of products claiming to be biodegradable, both in the clothing itself and in the packaging. While biodegradable materials do break down naturally by microorganisms such as bacteria and fungi, the effect is not absolute: factors such as temperature, nutrients, and the dyes and detergents used to treat the materials all affect biodegradability. Also note that biodegradable is not the same as compostable, which usually goes through a regulated process.
- Greenwashing
As consumers become more environmentally conscious, there has been an increase in "greenwashing" - where brands make false or misleading environmental policy statements. Some brands claim to be sustainable when their products contain only small amounts of recycled ingredients. To avoid the "greenwashing" trap, be sure to look at facts and figures that support brand claims, not just superficial ones.
- Upgrade
As brands increasingly focus on the environmental impact of raw materials, upcycling has become a trend in the industry, with brands such as Balenciaga, Miu Miu and Marni all using ready-made materials in recent seasons. Upcycling refers to the conversion of discarded materials and products into higher-value products, while recycling usually refers to the conversion of discarded products into similar products.
- Biodiversity
Biodiversity refers to the variety and abundance of species on Earth. Ecosystems are so interconnected that you can imagine how important biodiversity is. A staggering one million species are now facing extinction, with biodiversity loss estimated to be 1,000 times the natural rate. The vast majority of the materials used in fashion come from nature (from cotton in the field to viscose on the trees), so the industry is increasingly recognising its role, with Kering and LVMH both announcing new initiatives this year aimed at restoring biodiversity.
- Overspending
With a staggering 100 billion garments produced worldwide each year, overconsumption is a thorny issue. In short, more clothing is produced than we need and more than the planet can support. In fact, it's estimated that the number of times a single piece of clothing is worn has decreased by 36% over the past 20 years, often ending up in landfills. Therefore, the declaration of "buying clothes for quality and not quantity" is more and more worthy of our attention.
- Transparency
Transparency helps us understand whether brands are delivering on their sustainability commitments. Transparency means that a company discloses information about its entire supply chain, including its social and environmental policies. While campaign group Fashion Revolution publishes its annual Fashion Transparency Index, it's important to remember that more transparent brands aren't necessarily more sustainable.
- Ethical trading
While the terms "sustainable" and "ethical" are sometimes used interchangeably, ethical trade specifically refers to the treatment of people throughout the fashion supply chain, including growers of raw materials, employees working directly for fashion companies, and so on. An ethical brand must protect workers' rights - such as maximum working hours, health and safety, freedom of association and fair wages.
