Due to the development of the Industrial Revolution, the textile industry in Italy began to flourish in the 17th century. Milan, Florence, Rome, Naples and other places have been famous for producing textiles and leather goods since the 12th century, a tradition that has been passed down to the present day, giving the Italian fashion empire a polycentric, multi-genre pattern.

After the Second World War, the Italian clothing industry developed rapidly, Italians than the traditional British people will do business much more Zegna, Cerruti 1881,Armani and so on are from the family of small workshops to develop into stores all over the world brands, while Savile Street in the UK still rely on a few tailor to travel around the world, production and sales are not the same.

GRACE, chief designer of luxury men's haute couture brand GRACOBLE, told the author: "Over time and the evolution of suits, Italian suits can be divided into three groups according to the region from the difference in tailoring and production process: Milan, Rome and Naples."

Milan school suit cut and British suit is very close, the shoulder has a certain slope, with thinner shoulder pads, chest with full lining, waist lines soft general jacket single row two button style, open double vent, pants generally a province (pleats), Milan school suit outline is more rounded, represented by Caraceni. "

Caraceni, which originated in Rome and made its name in Milan, is produced in small quantities, about 700 pieces a year, by hand, with an average working time of 63 hours per piece, tailoring close to the British style, and custom prices starting at $4,100.

The Roman school is characterized by higher shoulders, and the upper sleeves are often higher than the shoulders.

The lapel is low and narrow.

The shirt does not open or open a single vent, shorter and thinner, with a single row of 3 grain deduction.

Pockets and other details are scaled down 10-20% more than usual.

The Roman faction is represented by Brioni, if you don't know much about Brioni, the latest 007 Daniel. Craig wore a Brioni suit in Casino Royale.

The Neapolitan school is relatively rare, and its most distinctive feature is the famous Neapolitan shoulder.

The Neapolitan shoulder line is very rounded, generally do not use shoulder pads or use extremely thin shoulder pads. The lapel is elevated and slightly more than half the width of the chest.

Leave a little room on the abdomen, tuck in the waist and raise the waist. It usually has double vents and the vents are very high.

Trousers are generally short and pulled up, the legs left very wide, the representative of the Neapolitan school is the famous Kiton.

Brioni and Kiton are the most prestigious Italian handmade suit brands, and all suits are handmade suits. But the two styles are diametrically opposed: Brioni is a power suit, worn like a warrior in the Roman Empire, and the chest lining and shoulder pads fully prop up the wearer's body, which is a feeling that the clothes modify the human body.

Kiton, on the other hand, focuses on soft and smooth, does not use or only use very thin shoulder pads, and the chest lining is completely different from Brioni, and it feels like a thin sweatshirt, soft and nothing.

Kiton's unique shape has a high body type requirement, not everyone can wear Kiton, and Kiton simply does not want to modify its version to suit a larger consumer group, as Canali and Zegna have been doing.

Kiton has more than 250 tailors and produces just 18,000 sets a year, a quarter of Brioni's and a fraction of Zegna's. Both are made entirely by hand. Kiton each piece of working time reached more than 200 hours, only each piece of clothing after finishing will be more than 20 hours, sighing at the same time also have to admire the artisans handed down skills, industrialization is rampant today, handwork shows its unique sense of value.

Brioni has a store in Beijing Huamao Center, and the price of finished handmade suits is about 50,000 to 100,000 yuan. Kiton, which entered China in 2006, has stores in Beijing's Jinbao Street and Intime Center, each with finished suits priced similar to Brioni's.