Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2022 menswear
It is worth mentioning that after the show, many fashion critics immediately began to have strong expectations for Rick Owens' next collection.
Although this is the final chapter of the four-part series of the Venetian Lido era, it is also a new prelude to his personal aesthetic world. When you get used to the radical and escapism of Rick Owens, you may wish to look forward to the dialogue about peace in the future.
Louis Vuitton
One of the most spotlighted shows at Paris Fashion Week this season was Virgil Abloh's Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2022 menswear.
According to show notes, Amen Break, a short drama film directed by Mahfuz Sultan, tells the story of "inheritance" : a father and son travel to another world to deliver a message to the people on the other side, suffering from difficult circumstances, but also blessed with the help of superior people.
The story is based on Chicago-born Rapper Lupe Fiasco. Around 1970, the rapper and his father spontaneously organized to teach children martial arts near their home, helping young generations to stay away from real social hazards by transmitting the values of martial arts.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2022 menswear
The issue of gender mobility, which is increasingly cited in the fashion field, has become a highlight of Louis Vuitton. From Logo jerseys, to tie-dyed down jackets, to suits, nothing can't match the different shapes of dresses on the show.
Therefore, it is not difficult to peek into Virgil Abloh's huge ambition, after all, living in the era of advocating diversity and inclusiveness, LGBTQ community members are widely accepted by the world, and they are likely to become an important part of the future consumer group.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2022 menswear
But when it comes to the main character, the Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1 deserves it. While working on the co-label, Virgil traced It back to Rob Base & DJ E-Z Rock's 1988 album It Takes Two, The latter wore a custom-made pair of Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1 for the cover.
Now Virgil has "made it right", turning the once dreamy dreamtalk into reality, and blending his signature quotation marks with the Monogram elements of the fashion house, in a nod to hip-hop culture.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2022 menswear
1017 ALYX 9SM
At 7 p.m. on June 27, 1017 ALYX 9SM, the last character on the Paris Fashion Week calendar, made its final appearance to the attention of fashion lovers around the world.
Matthew Williams invited Jordan Hemingway to create a short film called Beyond, which was filtered through the era atmosphere of 16mm film, and conveyed the vague emotions about warmth, joy and anger to the world.
1017 ALYX 9SM 2022 Spring/Summer Show
A natural setting of rough black rocks, empty beaches and scorching volcanoes, this sensual setting marks the official unveiling of the Italian brand's 5th Runaway spring/Summer collection.
The first Look, featuring a silhouetted jacket with a droopy shoulder line and overstretched sleeves, was paired with straight-leg shorts, also white, setting the tone for a show that leaned toward monochrome.
The resulting shape can be roughly regarded as two branches. The first part is reminiscent of the concept of "protection" of clothes, with cutting-edge clothing technology creating fabrics with futuristic textures and the brand's signature metal hardware, quite the implication of the wearer's isolation from the outside world in the post-pandemic era. The armored vest on the show took this concept to the extreme.
1017 ALYX 9SM 2022 Spring/Summer Show
The second part revolves around "softness", appearing in a series of dangly dresses, swimsuit dresses and knitted casual wear, etc., which is in stark opposition to the above rigidity.
As Matthew Williams explained in an interview, "It's about comfort, but also about dressing up in the post-pandemic era. We didn't use Mood Boards or look at other sources, but we used the design as a continuation of the previous series."
1017 ALYX 9SM 2022 Spring/Summer Show
On the whole, this spring and summer series is more like a self-upgrading and improvement, eliminating unnecessary popular attributes and subcultural elements, and without the designer's personal narrative, focusing more on the aesthetic level of industrial hardware.
This is the key core of 1017 ALYX 9SM, helping to solidify and clarify the brand's own style language and make it accessible to new audiences.
Namacheko
Namacheko, a new Swedish fashion brand that has been given high hopes by the industry media, has only been founded for four years, and has become a major young force that cannot be ignored in the fashion field with gorgeous elegant and highly recognizable design symbols.
For his latest spring/summer menswear collection, designer Dilan Lurr draws inspiration from Hans Christian Andersen's fairytale Ugly Duckling. When the ugly duckling, embarrassed to face the world, makes an emotional connection to her own immigrant experience, Dilan Lurr finally realizes something.
Namacheko 2022 Spring/Summer Collection
In his own words, it was only when he founded Namacheko and started shooting early costume designs for his family that he began to feel truly proud of his Kurdish heritage.
"We live in a community where we are the only immigrant family, and the school has an extra course that helps me learn the language faster. It was beautiful, I didn't feel any racism, but the feeling of being an outsider was real. "In this chat with WWD, we may get a first-hand sense of how Dilan Lurr feels in a foreign country.
Namacheko2022 spring/Summer series
Fortunately, to some extent, this also gave birth to his unique personal design techniques. The sweaters on the show mainly used hollowed-out geometric symbols, while the black pieces created rich visual effects through folds and textures, and the silver coin-like accessories were interspersed with a large number of clothes.
There is also a dazzling, futuristic use of color that references the different individual beings and atmospheres of Star Wars.
Namacheko2022 spring/Summer series
"Continuation, refinement, cohesion, exploration, balance, experiment, innovation" is not enough to describe the Paris Fashion Week this season, in addition to the article mentioned, in fact, there are many shows worth understanding. The likes of Sankuanz, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten, Doublet, and so on, are not short of appreciation.
But in terms of the current increasingly clear situation of the epidemic, this may be the last online and offline hybrid fashion season, the future of the show release system will make what changes, the major brands will release what kind of tricks to attract attention, you may wish to wait and see.
