The rise of the model as a fashion Muse


The Black Friday stock market crash of 1989 and the recession that followed in 1990 brought a shake-up to the fashion world. The recession abruptly froze the excesses and greed of the 1980s, ushering in a new era of sobriety and simplicity. Designers are introducing minimalist clothes that inject a breath of fresh air into the fashion world and make the eyes shine. The rise of brands such as Calvin Klein, Jil Sander and Helmut Lang was marked by this period. (It's worth noting that Ribat Ozbek's all-white collection in 1990 marked a turning point and rebirth for fashion.)

With the beginning of the 1990s, the supermodels under the Versace brand - Linda, Cindy, Naomi, Christy - swept the whole fashion circle with their incomparable charm, and dominated the entire fashion industry with their charming allure. But a few years later, the tide changed. The return of girly style - but these aren't the innocent teenage girls you saw in the 60s. With it came a flock of pale, emaciated models who looked as skinny as birds, as different from their powerful predecessors as if in need of protection. And Kate Moss is the perfect epitome of this new Muse.

During this decade, anxiety about the arrival of the millennium and trepidation about new technologies, such as flip phones and the rise of the Internet, gave birth to two very different fashion aesthetics. One is fantasy fashion that transcends reality and blends elements from different cultures and eras to break boundaries and show endless creativity. The other is a dramatic whitewash that harkened back to the past while incorporating modern fashion elements, as John Galliano's fashion for Dior showed. Jean Paul Gaultier, on the other hand, has a unique vision of blending modern fashion with elements from distant cultures and past eras to create a unique style. In addition, the Y2K era also gave birth to another kind of embrace of change and fun with online fashion, Jean Paul Gaultier's "The Future is Now" collection is an outstanding representative of this style.

Here's a look back at the fashion trends of the '90s.

Women's fashion from the 1990s

The rise of the model as a fashion Muse

In the late 1980s, they were eye-catching and heart-throbbing, but with the arrival of the 1990s, they officially captivated the world. They are supermodels. The four supermodels are Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, and Christy Turlington. In addition, Claudia Schiffer, Tatjana Patitz, Tyra Banks, Carla Bruni Sarkozy, Helena Christensen, Yasmeen Ghauri, Nadja Auermann, Stephanie Seymour and Elle MacPherson, among others.

"Why are these girls so famous? Why are they celebrities in their own right? Why are they household names that cross borders? How do I turn on the TV in Scotland and see Christy Turlington washing her face with three different types of Camay soap? Why did the Japanese press fly to Paris to ask Linda Evangelista (in English) what her hobby was? Why are these girls paid so much an hour? Are they so popular? Where does this extraordinary phenomenon of supermodels come from? When Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington walked hand in hand down the catwalk of Gianni Versace's fall 1991 show, some said they were more famous than their clothes.

They have famous boyfriends; Cindy Crawford was married to Richard Gere. They borrowed their faces for the biggest brands (the bones, according to Woods, are like 1950s waistcoats, but not scrawny); Check out Cindy Crawford's sexy Pepsi AD and Christy Turlington's Calvin Klein Eternity AD.

They embody the women of the 1990s - free, confident. Never before in history has a fashion model had such an impact. Their names became household names, and fashion brands rushed to work with them. The rise of the supermodel coincides with the rise of the fashion personality; The silent model is out. Models with enthusiasm, personality and energy are the mainstream.

By the middle, there was a new crop of models. Like the younger sisters of their predecessors, these new models are less busty and glamorous and more emaciated willows. And they seem designed specifically for the fashion subculture that is about to infiltrate the catwalk: grease rock.

Who are these models? Kate Moss, Shalom Harlow, Kirsty Hume, Stella Tennant and Amber Valletta. In a March 1996 article titled Zoolander: The Sequel, Karl Lagerfeld spoke about this generation of models. They are very young and like children -- they are called pixies. They have a sense of vulnerability. They need protection... But Stella Tennant is an exception. She is tenacious and needs no protection.

Greasy rock is popular

Casual style enters the world of high fashion

In the 1990s, Seattle brought a new sound to the world, and at the same time, its signature greasy rock style crept into the fashion world. The members of Nirvana, Soundgarden and Pearl Jam quickly won over young people with their tattered flannel shirts paired with vintage T-shirts, baggy vintage jeans and sneakers.

Unlike the punk style of the 70s, this style is more everyday and casual, there is no need to pursue it deliberately, and the fashion sense comes naturally. At its core, greasy rock is a meditation and reflection on the human condition, and fashion is just an embellishment.

By the 1990s, the Grunge Look had infiltrated the wardrobes of teenagers all over the world, and eventually trickled its way onto the haute couture scene.

Among them, the spring/Summer 1993 collection designed by Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis is a perfect interpretation of this casual style. The collection was released in September 1992, and although Marc Jacobs was fired from Perry Ellis as a result, his designs are forever enshrined in fashion history.

In December of the same year, Steven Meisel shot Naomi Campbell and Kristen McMenamy in a memorable blockbuster "Grunge & Glory." Jonathan Poneman's review of the work is as follows.

"Throw away your laundry detergent! This is not a call; This is an invitation to dress casually and have fun! As the turn of the century approached, greed had withered. What began as a revolt of serfs against the charms of the aristocracy has evolved into a fashion revolution that advocates' rebellion for your own sake. '" —— JONATHAN PONEMAN

In the collection, edited by Grace Coddington, models wear Ralph Lauren, Anna Sui and plaid shirts with their sleeves shaved off, paired with sheer Calvin Klein silk nightdresses. Lots of hair hats, layering and band T-shirts.

Commenting on Marc Jacobs' show, Suzy Menkes wrote: "I told Marc Jacobs that his Perry Ellis show - all slipper coats with crocheted vests and hot pants, or faded chiffon bunches and pajamas - looked like an attitude hippie." I don't like labels. This is how you dress today. This is how the girls come in, "he said. How Grunge grease rock?"

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