Today, Guram Gvasalia takes over from his brother Demna as the brand's creative director and CEO.

In less than a year, the creative and commercial Guram has tried to lead the brand to a new balance, stripping away the flashy elements for Vetements and returning to a more practical and restrained path, but still seeing the style elements that made the brand in its early days, refined and refined. Guram is committed to bringing Vetements into the context of the post-pandemic era.

Those sharp-cut but pastel striped jackets are more desirable, the asymmetrical breasted details and the wide-shouldered, waist-tucked version are more user-friendly, and the ripped jeans they pair with are just the right combination of decoration and practicality.

Shoulder pads are still the essence of the brand's signature T-shirts, hoodies and large silhouette shirts, giving a sense of life to what looks like a laid-back outfit.

The biggest look at Vetements this season is the loose-fitting suits that are consistent in color and fabric from the inside out, which may be seen as a compromise to the need for people to switch between work and life at all times. The high shoulders give each wearer an instant boost. The loose suit pants are designed like pajamas and loungewear, allowing you to stretch freely, from matte powder and fluorescent yellow to satin champagne, white and Burgundy, which can cover almost any occasion.

Of course, Vetements' oversized silhouette is still essential, and the simple plaid fabric is cut into an almost boundless cape jacket, giving the body real liberation.

As for the woven texture that Demna was so fond of when he was at the helm, it was used in the full set of trench coat and pants under the leadership of Guram, adjusting the color contrast of the warp and weaves in the fabric to an appropriate degree, looking both retro and modern.

At the end of the show, a series of Vetements-style dresses in sheer tulle and sequins came out, reminiscent of Balenciaga's season 51 couture collection, created by Demna, which had just been released the day before.

In fact, Vetements, who has repeatedly chosen to release new collections during haute couture weeks, does not hope to let the brand benchmark the standards of haute couture, as long as it can have a chat with those who seem to be above the old fashion house, the "witty" context on which Vetements lives can be formed.

Kim Jones is one of the industry's favorite designers to draw inspiration from travel. "This season, I want to jump out of Rome, or at least put it in a global context," in the three haute couture series completed before, Jones meticulously tells the thick history of this nearly century-old fashion house, and now, he integrates more personal perspective, "this series captures the fragments of traditional civilization and modern city microcosm." The whole collection echoes the fragmented nature of things, like fragments of memory, impressions of things past, present and future."

But rather than turning it into a patchwork of images of world cities, Jones's secret came from reducing the elements to simplicity: "I wanted light, simple, realistic silhouettes." In a pure white minimalist space, Jones presented one of his cleanest collections in Fendi couture. The first camel and nude suits and shirt-dresses show his absolute confidence in the fabric control of this established fashion house with a simple silhouette, and the Mosaic weave structure on the mink suit also perfectly integrates the characteristics of different materials, allowing fur craftsmanship to usher in a new life.

Under the simple and lean camel suit, Fendi also hid another surprise - the debut of the brand's first fine jewelry collection.

In jewelry art director Delfina Delettrez Fendi's fine jewelry collection named FENDI Flavus, the waterfall arrangement of brilliant diamonds is particularly eye-catching, and the double FF letter logo composed of brilliant emerald cut yellow diamonds and long step yellow diamonds is shining in the center of the necklace. It shows the beauty of the flow of Roman fountains.

Jones's mastery of French "Oriental", art deco and Italian tailoring was demonstrated in a series of exquisitely crafted couture dresses that followed.

The elegant and solemn dragline dress is made of a patchwork process similar to the traditional Japanese stitching process of the 18th century, and a variety of light-colored printed fabrics are tightly linked together in a seemingly casual way, like a vase that has been restored, and each grain contains a remarkable story.

Also with the spirit of Oriental "reorganization" of the gold embroidery and tulle patchwork dress, reminiscent of the ancient Japanese Kinpolish process, the restored objects in the gap, but also retained the gold powder and gold paint attached track, like a bright hope flowing from the objects.

From the perspective of the brand's history, these futuristic pieces are actually an homage to Karl Lagerfeld's "Broken Mirror" dress for Fendi in 2000.

In an attempt to break people's imagination of its single dimension, the three sets of exquisite modern shapes appeared on the show, the process of sequin embroidery was used quietly, the gradual effect and the processing technology of tight fitting fabric, so that the sequin creates a delicate fusion of lines like fur, reflecting a soft light.

Even in the interpretation of heavy embroidery, Jones also chooses to "lighten the burden" in silhouette and material, based on short cuts or extreme lightweight tulle, embellished with Japanese-style plant print embroidery or spliced rhine-diamond patterns. In the shape of those full of luster but it is difficult to distinguish its material properties for a time, the more delicate embroidery with the same color of fabric is "stealth" to perform the shining task.

"It's available to all the girls I know who fly around and have to go to all kinds of activities," Kim Jones admits of the range's practical, yet luxurious, versatility. Indeed, the gradually improving global epidemic situation has made the fashion traveler who is used to traveling the world suddenly open his mind. Perhaps on his next trip around the world, Jones will see girls in this season's couture traveling light.